Hakone Onsen Yuyado Yamanosyou

A truly old-school Japanese onsen hotel, with a simple, enjoyable bath that has both indoor and outdoor areas. The tatami room was very traditional, and it felt like an authentic Japanese onsen experience. Booking the private onsen was easy. The older woman at the front desk was detailed, friendly, and very helpful. Dining staff were helpful too, explaining the dishes and serving and scooping the food for us. They spoke decent English. The food tasted absolutely great, and the portions were good. The main drawback is that the hotel is quite far from most attractions, but overall it was good.

The food was incredible, and the building and surroundings are lovely. The onsen was a great experience too. This one can be used by couples of mixed sexes, unlike most onsens in Japan. There are two private baths, and you book a one-hour slot each day. The reception lady, who I think is the owner, was especially kind and helpful, and nothing seemed like too much trouble for the staff. A beautiful stay at a lovely Ryokan. I’d recommend it to anyone.

The room was very spacious, and the onsen facilities were nice, designed for groups of up to four. Each night, you get 50 minutes in a private onsen at a set time. Ours was 7:00-7:50pm. I’m not sure whether the times can be changed. We would have liked a later schedule, since dinner at 5:30pm and breakfast at 7:30am were too early for us, though I think all guests dine at the same time. The dinner and breakfast were amazing. It’s a traditional-style place, and you get traditional clothing to wear for free. The sachets of body wash and his-and-hers facial cleansers were a lovely touch. There are two floors, with rooms along single corridors, all looking out at the same mountain and vacant-lot view. The toilet in 205 had a bit of a weird smell. We had a hire car. You can still get here by bus and a bit of a walk, but I wouldn’t recommend it.

The private open-air onsen was a godsend, and both dinner and breakfast were some of the most delicious vegan food I’ve ever had. The staff were friendly and helpful, and they even helped send my suitcase back down to the station. My room was spacious and kept cool and dry, though the air-con light was a bit bright at night. I had a wonderful time, and got to keep the socks 🤭