Hakone Ryori Yado Kyuan

Traffic noise was constant because the hotel sits between two streets, which made it hard to relax. The bed was uncomfortable and the room much too bright. I booked based on the good reviews, but this was the worst place we stayed during our 22-day trip. The meal policy, which doesn’t allow stays longer than two nights, made me expect better food. Instead, meals were disappointing and nothing special. We left the table hungry on the first day, and the food seemed to have a roughly 20-80 balance of protein to carbs. If you prefer a higher-protein diet, I’d eat elsewhere. On our final day, we planned to visit the Open-Air Museum, but staff wouldn’t let us leave the property before checking out, even though checkout was still an hour away. They also refused to hold our luggage. It was extremely stressful. I don’t recommend this hotel.

The scenery from our room was lovely, and we enjoyed relaxing there. This was one of the best experiences of my life, with respectful staff who did their best to keep guests comfortable. The ryokan itself is gorgeous. Dinner was an eight-course kaiseki meal, and the Japanese breakfast the next morning had nine different things to try. Here’s how the dinner went for us: the steamed egg was delicate but plain, 3.5/5; clam and nori soup was fresh, with the clam bringing out the umami, 4/5; the sashimi fish was very fresh with distinct textures, 5/5; the wagyu under the bamboo shoot was tender, juicy, and one of my favorite bites of our whole Japan trip, 5/5. The fish cooked in aromatic oil was delicate and tender, 5/5, and the fragrant pot rice was also 5/5. Miso soup warmed us near the end, 4/5. Dessert was tofu with chocolate and tea, 5/5. Breakfast was plentiful, and I was still happy to eat fish in the morning. I did hear some other foreign guests weren’t able to stomach fish for breakfast and left a lot uneaten. It ended with ice cream and red bean jelly, which felt decadent. We had a great time and would definitely come back.

The room views were great, and it was quiet throughout the property. The in-room onsen was amazing. Kenta mainly helped us, and he was fantastic, courteous, and quick to respond. Our half-board meals were very good: the kaiseki had lots of variety, and breakfast was tasty too, though the portions were so huge it was hard to finish. The place is a bit out of the way, so take a taxi or use their free shuttle from one of the nearby stations. We’d recommend staying here and are strongly considering coming back if we return to the area.

After a day out, we’d return to our room and enjoy the natural private bath, then head to the restaurant’s private room for dinner. The meals over our two nights and two breakfasts were exquisite kaiseki, delicious, generously portioned, and served with a real sense of occasion. We took the dinner menu home as a keepsake. The Japanese-style room wasn’t large, but it was well equipped and thoughtfully laid out. What stood out most was the attentive, thoughtful service. The three main staff members were excellent and did their best to meet our needs. They patiently helped with dining and cleaning arrangements, and also planned routes and activities for us. My friend and I felt this was the best accommodation experience we’d ever had, and we really felt the care in the Japanese service. I’ll book here again next time I visit Hakone.