Ryokan Masuya

The hot tubs were wonderful, filled with water straight from the thermal hot springs. Hardly anyone else was using them, so we had them to ourselves. I also liked being in Sengokuhara, away from Hakone's more touristy towns. Buses to the port and Gora run often, and each ride is about 15 minutes. Restaurants, convenience stores, supermarkets, and a coin laundry are walkable; several museums and a botanical garden are nearby too. The hotel had the feel of someone's traditional home, and the owner was kind and generous. He spoke a little English. We had a traditional Japanese breakfast on our first morning. One downside: the hallway, though not our room, smelled of cigarette smoke now and then. Smoking laws seem different here than in other countries.

Buses make it easy to get to places of interest, and the owner spoke English quite well. The ryokan was quiet and fairly priced for the area. There's a small ground-floor onsen with cloudy, very hot water. Since it was quiet, the owner let my partner and me bathe together. They left thoughtful little things in the room, oranges, biscuits, and tea, and provided yukata, casual kimono, to wear to the downstairs onsen. Breakfast was a delicious mix of small Japanese dishes. I'd definitely recommend staying here.

After a long flight, soaking in the onsen was especially relaxing. My wife loves sleeping in traditional Japanese hotels, with tatami floors and futons, so she enjoyed that too. We also found a good yakiniku restaurant just a five-minute walk away.

It's a traditional ryokan, with tatami flooring, a low table, and a mattress on the floor. They welcomed us with hot tea, ice water, and a snack, and breakfast was included. The natural hot spring tub is an authentic certified onsen. English was limited, but enough to get by, and they were accommodating. There's a Tozan line T-bus stop and plenty of places to eat about a five-minute walk away. The bus ride to Togendai, for the Mount Hakone ropeway and cruise, is around 15 minutes. One thing to keep in mind: several places close earlier than you might expect, so check closing times and the last run carefully.