Ueyama Ryokan

The complimentary shuttle to and from Himeji was a lifesaver, since I can imagine it would otherwise be a real mission to get there. Everyone we dealt with was friendly and went out of their way to help, even though they knew very little English. Our waitstaff was a delight, and the meal was extensive and very high quality, with all those courses brought to our room. The price for one night was eye-watering, which made the state of the place harder to accept. It must once have been beautiful, but now it feels aged and in quite poor condition. The fixtures are dated and the bathing areas very mildewy. The wood around our private bath was moldy and smelled strongly while we used it, and I believe we were charged extra for that bath. The wooden bridge to the outdoor baths felt soft and unstable in places. The slippers required everywhere, since shoes aren't allowed, were very old and extremely uncomfortable, came in only two sizes, and made me trip on the stairs multiple times.

Getting out here takes a bit of effort and it may cost a little more, but I thought it was well worth it. The staff were super friendly, the amenities were amazing, and the food was great. The bath experience in rural Japan was tranquil, and I left feeling like my body, mind and soul had truly been healed. Our hosts made it a memorable Japanese experience.

The outdoor onsen were delightful. Even in cold weather, I recommend sitting in the fresh air, looking up through the leaves into the surrounding forest. Our spacious, warm traditional room was just what we hoped for, with views over the pond and beautiful red leaves. We worried about smoke because there are no non-smoking rooms. There was a faint lingering smell, especially in the window-side seating area, but it was slight and we soon forgot it. The hosts were welcoming and friendly from beginning to end, despite their limited English. They helped us understand how to eat the food and enjoyed making our daughter laugh. We had never tasted food like this before: the scallop sashimi was so tender, and the marbled beef for sukiyaki was amazing. If you want a few days away from the city bustle to relax and eat well, I really recommend this place.

The rooms are spacious and comfortable, and the meals were consistently delicious. Staff throughout the place were very friendly and happy to share local tips and knowledge for driving destinations. You can also buy tickets for Himeji Central Park, including the zoo or amusement park, at reception. The ryokan feels a little old, but the location is 300 years old, so time seems to move slowly here.