Hamatoku Hotel

The hot spring water itself was good, but the bath was far too hot. Worse, I slipped in the bath for the first time because one area was slick. It hadn't been slippery the day before, so I suspect it wasn't cleaned thoroughly. They should have put up a warning sign. The food was the worst I've had at a hotel, and the stay wasn't worth the price. I wish they'd served local fish like mehikari or bonito. Breakfast was just duck soup, with no miso soup, and other guests were complaining about that too. There was pudding in the morning, when I would've preferred fruit or yogurt. I regret not staying at Hawaiianz. The hot springs are very good, so I wish they'd put more thought into the food and the rest of the experience.

The baths were a real treat. I went to the first-floor-below-ground public bath when it was quiet and found just one other person there. It has two similar large indoor tubs and two ceramic outdoor tubs that seemed too small for two people. We each had the hot springs to ourselves, and I stretched out in the round ceramic one for a long soak. It would've felt awkward with two or three others there, though. I got up early and visited Yumemi no Niwa on the third floor before breakfast. At 5:30 there was nobody there, which felt incredibly lucky. Beyond the large bath at the entrance is a semi-open-air area. I tried the golden outdoor bath at the back, then the oval and round ceramic baths, the other baths, and finally the large outdoor bath and the big one at the front. Having all that space to myself was wonderful. From there I climbed the stairs back to our room on the sixth floor. The day before, I'd gone up from the basement and was out of breath. I clearly need more exercise. We stayed on April 23 and 24. The drive in followed quite a mountain road, and I was surprised to learn that Spa Resort Hawaiians is high in the mountains rather than facing the Pacific as I'd assumed. The resort complex is huge, and Tokiwa no Yado Hamatoku had a lovely traditional Japanese atmosphere. Staff greeted us, explained things carefully, and showed us to the sixth floor of the Nishikaze-kan building. There were also the Tofu-kan, Ao-kan, and Bettei Toki no Yado buildings. The first-floor coffee lounge served a welcome drink from 2 to 5:30 p.m. There were flowers around the hotel, though they weren't fresh, with beautiful obi sashes displayed beneath the vases. I'd never seen flowers arranged that way. The place was dust-free, and keeping it so clean must take work. The baths included the large public bath on the first basement floor, two private outdoor baths, and the third-floor Yumemi no Niwa spa area, with separate times for men and women. Dinner was Japanese kaiseki, and breakfast was a Japanese set meal. There was plenty of delicious fish, including sashimi and boiled fish, as you'd expect at an ocean-side hotel. I'd never been served whale sashimi before. I'm used to buffet meals, but this kaiseki meal was nice too. Each floor was beautifully decorated, which gave the inn a grand feel, and the front desk staff were polite and friendly.

The staff were kind, and I have no complaints about their service. At dinner our child got restless and started playing, but the staff encouraged him. He was happy to chat with them, which helped. We had a great stay, and I was generally pleased with the room, baths, food, and service. I'd read the reviews and didn't expect much, but it wasn't as bad as they made it sound. Since it was a quiet weekday, the staff seemed relaxed and we could enjoy the meal. I'm not sure how it would be on a busy weekend, but I was very satisfied this time. We booked a weekday before a three-day weekend, so there weren't many guests. In the Hana Asobi room, the advertised semi-open-air bath felt almost entirely indoors because of the large window. Still, opening the window while bathing made it feel more open, and the tub was roomy and comfortable. The room was clean and well kept, though someone had left the previous guest's survey in the folder, so I quietly threw it away. The first-floor-below-ground public bath was quiet that day, but I wondered whether there are enough washing spots when it's busy. It has only a couple of outdoor baths, enough for two people at a time, but a spacious indoor bath. The third-floor bath has a large outdoor tub. They switch the baths between night and morning, so you can try both. Dinner was a set meal with crab, plus a good amount of local food. We lit the hot pot and grilled dishes ourselves with a lighter. The sashimi was tasty and not dry. Alcohol cost a bit much, though that may just be tourist pricing. Rice, soup, and pickles were self-serve. Breakfast leaned heavily toward meat, with sausages, bacon, curry, and similar food. That seems well suited to families with children, given the nearby Hawaiians and aquarium, though the menu might feel too childish for older guests. With so few guests, portions were generous enough and we ate our fill.

My elderly mother and I were welcomed kindly as soon as we arrived, and our car was parked close to the entrance. We booked a room with an outdoor bath. She also managed to go to the communal bath by holding my sister's hand. There were hardly any steps from our room, and the tub had a handrail, so getting in and enjoying the hot spring was easy and comfortable. The water had no taste or smell, but by dinner time it felt smooth and silky. That surprised me. Dinner was a multi-course meal with sashimi, monkfish hot pot, beef tongue grilled with miso, and white rice. Even though reviews had been mixed, everyone in my family enjoyed it. The landlady came to greet us, and the staff were warm and welcoming, making the inn very comfortable. Breakfast was served too. There weren't any extras, but the portions were just right and we had no problem enjoying it. This is a very elderly-friendly, barrier-free place, and I'd definitely like to bring my mother back.