Arai Ryokan

The setting is gorgeous. At night you can hear the clear river from your room, and outside there's a lovely koi pond. I had a great time feeding the fish, and the whole area is nice to walk around. The food was another highlight during our three-day stay. I'm American and about 80% of what they served was new to me, with a few dishes I was nervous to try. Everything was incredibly fresh, though, and by the end I was enjoying a lot of it, even as a somewhat picky eater. My wife is more adventurous than I am, lol. I'd never stayed at a ryokan before, so it was all new to me. Our attendant, Junna, made us feel like the most important people on earth. She arranged breakfast and dinner so thoughtfully and explained the dishes and Japanese culture. We left feeling like we'd made a friend who'd taught us about the area. The service was so good that I want to use some of what I learned from her and the staff in my construction business back home in the states. If you're debating whether to stay, do it!

We loved the traditional, clean, cosy room, the pretty view from the window, and the free yukata for our stay. This felt like a truly authentic experience. The food was delicious, though some dishes were unusual and probably won't suit everyone. I liked about 60% of it, but there was so much that nobody would leave hungry. It isn't the cheapest ryokan with onsens, but it's beautiful. Two of the baths are kakenagashi rotunburo, open-air spring baths with constantly flowing fresh water. Men and women can both use them, but at different scheduled times. There are other onsens too, though these two were the best, especially the one in the forest that looked straight out of a Japanese game or anime. The ryokan also has a pretty little koi pond. Service was spectacular. English was a little difficult, but Google Translate can help if you don't speak Japanese. P.S. When I took the photos, nobody else was in the onsen besides me. It was 23:50, so I let myself bring my phone in for a picture.

Shuzenji has a quiet allure that's hard to explain, and it's hard to leave. This was our second visit to the town and Arai Ryokan, and I'm sure we'll return. We've been to Kyoto most often in Japan, as well as Shirakawa-go, Kanazawa, Niseko, Noboribetsu, and many other places with their own appeal. Shuzenji stands out, not because of one particular feature, but because of the way it draws you in. We travel about five months each year, mostly around Europe and Asia, and have stayed at countless hotels, from the Alps and Mediterranean islands to Provence and Tuscany. In Japan we've tried Hiiragiya in Kyoto and Hoshinoya in Tokyo, but Arai Ryokan is our favorite. The one-night package with two meals is excellent value, and the service is impeccable. Chikurin no Yu, the shrine bath, and the outdoor garden baths are real treasures that are hard to find elsewhere. Even stays at two Michelin three-key hotels in the Black Forest and luxury places like Aman, Hoshinoya, and Four Seasons left less of an impression. Every departure from Arai Ryokan feels bittersweet. The breakfasts and dinners are carefully made and never repetitive. The staff are warm and attentive, and often wait at the restaurant early to greet us. This time we stayed in Yukino 1, where three sides of the room look out onto different gardens, each mesmerizing in its own way. Arai Ryokan doesn't have modern luxury or extravagance, but you can feel the family's deep cultural heritage and legacy.

The meals are included, breakfast and dinner, and they're not Western food, so expect some interesting dishes. The rooms are basic and traditional, with lovely views over the grounds, koi ponds, and trees. There's air conditioning and a bathroom in the room. The hot spring baths are great for soaking and showering, and you can reserve a private bath if you don't want to use the public ones. At arrival, they greet you, guide you through check-in, explain things, and give you a room map. They take you to your room with hot tea and answer questions. Futons are the bedding, and luggage space is limited. If the floor feels too hard, there's an extra pad in the closet. A spectacular place with traditional Japanese baths.