NIPPONIA Izumo Sagiura Fisherman Town

Dinner was a highlight. The wild boar hot pot had no gamey smell, the fat was sweet, and even my child, who usually doesn’t eat much meat, happily said it was delicious. The staff were very kind, and the homey feel made it easy to relax. We stayed after visiting Izumo Taisha Shrine, in a lovely old house in Sagiura, a quiet port town in Shimane Prefecture. Listening to the waves there felt special. It was a great family trip away from the busy tourist areas, with really good food. We’ll definitely visit again.

The staff got in touch beforehand to mention there were no nearby shops, that we should bring anything we needed, and that it gets very dark at night, with deer to watch for on the way. Their thoughtful heads-up made it easy to settle in and enjoy the luxury of having nothing to do. I’d become a fan of the traditional Japanese RITA inns after staying at RITA Unnan Yoshida, and this time I got to visit Izumo Sagiura. The area was new to me, a quiet fishing village pleasantly removed from the bustle around Izumo city and Izumo Taisha Shrine. Seeing that old townscape still there was moving. The room had been beautifully renovated while keeping the feel of a fishing village, and the nostalgic breakfast was delicious. Since the inn is close to Izumo Taisha Shrine, we went a little north instead of staying in the convenient town center, and enjoyed the calm at RITA Izumo Sagiura. Taking time to listen to the voices of the gods is a lovely way to spend time in Izumo. We also visited Wan'enji Temple, where the sacred atmosphere and cool, fresh air felt cleansing. At the inn, the waves were the only sound, and the time there felt like it washed the soul clean.

At night the village is pitch black, which can feel a little scary. But that’s part of the experience of traveling as if you live there. This isn’t a tourist destination, and places that combine an old house with a setting like this must be rare. I want people to know about it, and at the same time, I kind of want to keep it to myself. The merchant’s house stands on a street corner that still strongly recalls the port days of Kitamae ships. Just being able to stay in this building feels remarkable. From the second-floor bedroom, I could see the harbor water through the roof and nap to the sound of the waves.

I could take it easy in the morning, looking out at the ocean, then walk around the neighborhood with the waves in the background. It was a luxurious bit of time, and I’m grateful for the hospitality. My room was two stories. Downstairs, the earthen-floor area had a table, gas heater and simple kitchen. The bathroom and toilet were fairly new.