Hatori

This felt well below a four-star ryokan, more like a two-star. The room looked old, peeling and forgotten, even though the lobby and common areas were okay. Scratches and stains showed up on walls wherever I looked. The ryokan spans two buildings, so if something was missing from the closets, you had to go to the lobby building to get it. With tatami floors, luggage has to stay on the floor by the entrance, which was really uncomfortable.

The dinner with kaiseki was amazing and worth the package price, and the staff were lovely, attentive and very nice. I would come back, but I'd book a standard room and use the real onsen rather than pay extra for a room with a so-called private bath. I booked in a hurry on booking.com and thought the pricier suite included a private onsen. It was only a regular bath, with no onsen water. Some reviews describe the same room as having a private onsen, but it shouldn't be labeled a “private” bath if that gives the wrong impression. It’s a good escape from the big-city rush, although plenty of other tourists were there too, so it isn't exactly hidden. Some parts of the ryokan look nicely renovated; other areas are dated, musty and discoloured.

The dinners alone felt worth the stay, with two meals that seemed Michelin quality. The room was beautiful, and we loved the in-suite bathtub. The beds were firm but comfortable, and the staff were kind and attentive, speaking English with us and listening to our bad Japanese. The shuttle to and from KagaOnsen station was much appreciated. I might suggest larger geta, though that didn't affect our stay. We spent two nights at Hatori, and it was the highlight of our trip. Ignore the cranky tourists and come for a great experience.

The onsen was lovely, and the masseuse was especially friendly. She spoke decent English and helped me with my Japanese. The breakfast was okay. The place had all the amenities and was good overall, though a bit dated and run down. Nothing major, but you can tell it's getting old.