Yamanaka Spa Hanatsubaki

Surrounded by mountains and a little river, this hot spring hotel is quiet and calming. The service was good, and it was a nice way to unwind from everyday city stress.

The riverside setting made bathing here feel unusual in a good way, and I really enjoyed the onsen by the stream. But the route down involves 71 uneven rocks, climbed in slippers, so I wouldn't recommend it to anyone with weak legs or poor eyesight. The place also feels overdue for renovation. There are no showers at the outdoor spa, and the slippers aren't sanitized, which left the overall experience feeling less clean. On the night we stayed, there was no hot water in our room or the indoor spa, so we couldn't shower before bed. Even after our tour guide complained, the hotel didn't apologize or offer any gesture.

We stopped here to rest on the way from Tokyo to Osaka, and it made for a romantic, relaxing break. The open air baths were beautiful, the facility was clean, and breakfast was fresh and authentic. Having a private onsen in the room felt essential. If you're arriving late, bring food or be ready to walk into town since dining choices are limited. Dinner can, I believe, be booked ahead. They kindly offered to make us something, too.

I picked this place because it’s quiet and away from the city, and that secluded feel was just what I wanted. Remember to arrange the pickup ahead or check the bus schedule. The staff were so attentive and kind. They even upgraded me to an hour in the private onsen, which I loved. Thank you!