Hamabeno Ryouriyado Houraikan

The included food and drinks were a thoughtful extra. The hotel sits right on a beautiful beach, and a wonderful person who runs it shares her story about the 2011 tsunami. If you want to see Japan beyond the usual tourist stops, this place shouldn't be missed.

We stayed one weekday night in late November 2024, and it was fairly quiet, with just a few other guests. Parking was easy, right beside the hotel, with plenty of spaces. Our room was clean and comfortable for two. The onsen has been renovated recently, with indoor and outdoor baths. The water was very clear, though a little hot for us. I especially liked the outdoor bath, where we could hear the waves and rain together. Dinner was better than we expected: fresh seafood, nicely seasoned dishes and a clear, fragrant soup. We really enjoyed it. The pudding with marinated pineapple, I think it was pineapple, was a surprisingly lovely combination. Breakfast was more ordinary, but still enjoyable.

The restaurant was a highlight for our family of three Australians. It serves set meals of local food, usually seafood. My seafood allergy got lost in translation at dinner, but breakfast had plenty I could eat, and my son, who dislikes raw fish, found options too. We had miso soup, natto, yoghurt, Japanese omelettes, pickled vegetables and more. The chef explained the dishes to us, and everything was delicious. You take your shoes off and leave them in a locker when you come in, as is Japanese custom. The baths were very clean and quiet, with a view over the ocean. We had a great time here.

Houraikan is special to me because of Akiko-san and her team. Their story of getting through the tsunami moved me, and the warmth they showed felt real. I've stayed at many ryokans and know the usual high service standards, but the people here went further. Their smiles and greetings felt sincere, not just polite. As a solo traveller, I appreciated Akiko-san taking photos for me and showing me around Kamaishi. She proudly pointed out attractions, offered recommendations, came with me to the tourist centre for a town map, then took me to the museum and asked the staff there to look after me. One night the fire alarm went off in the middle of the night. Akiko-san apologized so much for disturbing my sleep that, although I told her it was okay, she waived the cost of my sake and the usual bath tax. She also gave me extra snacks and a bandana as a farewell gift. Every staff member at Houraikan was warm and thoughtful. When the washing machine was busy, one of them later knocked on my door to let me know it was free. I also loved bathing in the open-air wood bath, with its pleasant smell and the ocean so close by. Soaking in the onsen while listening to the majestic waves was wonderful. The futon, blanket and pillow were the most comfortable. I hope more people discover Houraikan. The ocean around it is beautiful, but what makes the place special most of all is the hearts of the people there.