Yumoto Chiyodakan

After walking about 20 km through Oze Marsh, I was glad to soak in the open-air bath, then have a cold beer and maitake mushroom rice. I spent two quiet, relaxing days here, and both the food and hot springs were wonderful. I even saw a restaurant advertising maitake rice on the drive toward Nikko afterward, so it seems to be a local specialty, though apparently seasonal. I’d booked two nights because I wanted to walk through Oze Marsh at least once and needed somewhere near the Katashina Onsen shuttle stop. I usually look for places with hot springs, especially an outdoor bath, and this was the only place I found in Katashina Onsen with both an open-air bath and a spacious public bath. I booked early. I was on a motorcycle trip and could park under the eaves beside the entrance, protected from dew and rain. There was room for about two bikes, and more if the sky was clear. The inn was much bigger inside than it looked from the entrance. There was an elevator at the back, and my room was on the fourth floor. I was traveling alone and would normally need a single, but I don’t think they had a single R room, so I got a twin R room instead. The window looked out over the river and the other bank. There was a rapid just in front, so the water sounded pretty loud, but closing the window blocked it out. The public bath had a sauna that fits one or two people. I especially liked the outdoor bath, which was a little cooler than the indoor one and comfortable enough to linger in. Dinner was served in the dining hall from 6:00 PM. For the price, it was tasty and plentiful, enough to fill an adult man. Breakfast started at 7:30 AM. Even if you take 30 minutes to eat, it’s about a 10-minute trip from the inn to the Tokura shuttle bus stop at the first parking lot. Leaving around 8:10 to buy a ticket should still get you on the 8:30 bus. I’m not sure about the other parking lots if the first one is full during peak season.

The innkeepers are friendly and helpful, which gives the place a homey feel. I also really enjoy the food here. The Japanese meals have lots of variety and tasty dashi, with local ingredients like wild vegetables and handmade Gunma konjac. The simmered adzuki beans are a real treat. Breakfast is a Japanese buffet with plenty of vegetable salad, simmered dishes, and other sides. The local milk is delicious, and there’s coffee too. I come back whenever I go skiing. The 100-year-old hot spring, with water flowing straight from the source, is the best part after a day on the slopes. The building is old, but it’s kept up well and feels comfortable.

The dinner and breakfast portions were generous, and I liked the simple, rustic food. The fried flounder at dinner was especially good, as were the lightly seasoned udon noodles served instead of miso soup. I wasn’t keen on the tea in the room during meals and think roasted green tea would be better. The free coffee and milk at breakfast were a nice touch. The bath was on the second floor. The women’s was larger than the men’s, with an indoor bath that was lukewarm and an outdoor one that was a bit hot. They disinfect with ultraviolet light rather than chlorine, so there was no chlorine smell. From the open-air bath, I could see the river through gaps in the wall and enjoy the autumn leaves. The sauna wasn’t open. My skin felt very smooth afterward, maybe because of the simple alkaline spring water. I stayed one night, from Sunday, November 9 to Monday, November 10, 2025. From the parking lot it’s about a 10-minute walk to the inn, but there’s a covered path, so rain is okay. Stuffed black bears and polar bears greet you near reception. The inn is old, though the west wing has been renovated, and you take an elevator from the main building to get there. My room was a Japanese-style one on the third floor. It had a refrigerator, safe, washroom, and toilet, and the futon was already laid out. There were very few electrical outlets, which was inconvenient. Meals are served in the first-floor dining room. During dinner I was surprised to hear children talking loudly outside. The innkeeper told me it was a festival called "Tōkanya," where children sing and hit the ground with "straw guns" to ward off evil spirits and pray for a good harvest the following year.

The weather didn’t cooperate, so I had to change my plans, but that gave me more time to enjoy the hot spring. I loved how it was laid out and how spacious it felt. There were around 15 guests, yet every time I went in, I had the bath to myself. The men’s outdoor bath does feel like it might be visible. Dinner was the kind of meal you’d expect at a traditional inn. There aren’t many places to eat nearby, so I’d recommend booking a meal plan.