Yutorian

The property is beautifully kept, though there are some stink bugs, so I’d avoid the really warm months like July and August. We had great service, a lovely breakfast, and a nice dinner that wasn’t especially memorable. It’s one of the most interesting ryokans I’ve stayed at in Japan, with a beautiful setting and an unusual monorail running through the grounds. My main disappointment was our room. We booked it for the indoor and outdoor baths, hoping to have a private onsen, but there was no onsen water in them. Aside from that, it was a really nice experience and I’d highly recommend it.

The mountain views, hot springs and delicious food already make this a cozy place to stay, and there’s even a pet hotel and a small exhibition of antiques. I’d recommend it for a family trip. I expected a traditional Japanese inn with high-quality rooms and service, but the unexpected features made it much more interesting. Since the property is so large, it has self-driving cars to take guests around. They aren’t as advanced as the general-purpose cars made by automakers, but they’re still really cool. The inn is built around a mountain, so its floors aren’t stacked directly above one another. A regular elevator wouldn’t work well, so there’s a small Gondola to move between levels, with decorations along the rails to look at on the ride.

I especially enjoyed the guests-only onsen and the private bath in our room. Yutorian has lovely views, friendly staff, and a shop with omiyage to pick up. Both breakfast and dinner were delicious. I’d love to return someday.

If the full stay feels a bit pricey, or you’re only visiting for the day, there’s a lunch set from 3,000 JPY that includes use of the onsen. The traditional ryokan has individual thatched-roof houses along the main street at the front. I’d find those more interesting to stay in, with their futon and hearth (irori), than the newer accommodation up the hill with beds. The automated golf-cart-like vehicles bring guests right to their doors. I’m not sure that’s necessary when even the farthest walk is about 15 minutes, though they might be handy after a few drinks at the restaurant.