HANAMIZUKI

I was surprised by how completely relaxed I felt here. Sitting in the private onsen looking out to sea, then having a sumptuous dinner and another soak, was hard to beat. The main downside for me was the number of insects. That’s understandable in such a natural setting and isn’t the inn’s fault. Keeping the windows shut should help, and perhaps there are fewer in colder seasons. I’d love to return many more times. We spent two nights in the Sakura room, one of only four, so the ryokan was quiet and never crowded. The room was very spacious for two, clean, new-looking, and thoughtfully laid out. From the terrace and onsen there’s an amazing ocean view, and at certain angles atop the hill it feels like being in the clouds. Everything you need is provided, so you can arrive in your day clothes. The pajamas were so soft and comfortable I wished I could take a pair home. The inn is up a small hill, so driving is highly recommended. There’s no shop nearby, but the inn has a drink vending machine. The owners are a lovely, kind, friendly couple, patient with us when we used Google Translate, and generous with recommendations for Kawazu. Meals are served in a private room with a great view, though the view varies depending on which dining room you get. Dinner and breakfast were fresh and sumptuous. You can’t bring your own alcohol, but their sake is good and reasonably priced.