Myoken Hotel

The sound of the river is always nearby since all the rooms run parallel to it. Complimentary tea, air-conditioning, and a kotatsu were provided in the room when we stayed in Autumn. For bathing, there’s an enclosed, fairly spacious hot spring, and another by the river with open views of the Kirishima forestry. It was my first time bathing somewhere so open, and it definitely won’t be the last. Myoken Onsen's Tajima Honkan gave me the feeling of being on holiday in my own prefecture, which doesn’t happen often. It’s remote and rustic, and perfect if you want a warm, homely stay. If you’re after a more hyper-luxury Japanese inn, this probably isn’t the place. The staff were incredibly friendly and accommodating, and I can’t thank them enough for their hospitality. I called ahead about vegan dinner and breakfast, and they were happy to provide them. Tajima Honkan served some of the best Japanese-style meals I’ve had in Japan, well beyond my expectations. They were filling and clearly well thought out. There’s also shōchū, beer, sake, and wine to order. I sat by the outdoor fire and passed the time in very relaxed, quiet surroundings. One thing to know: there’s no hot water in the room. If you shave with hot water, use the shower at the hot springs. There’s only one shower, so you may have to wait. It was a refreshing, good-for-the-soul stay. We were there one night, but two or three would be ideal if you’re traveling from outside the prefecture.

The river view from the parking garage is spectacular. This little bath is tucked away compared with the other Myoken onsen, but the retro exterior is adorable, and two calico cats greet you at the door. It costs 300 yen for a classic, no-frills soak. The nice obaachan there may strike up a chat, though their Kagoshima-Ben accents are strong. ❤️

The two lovely cats are part of what makes this ryokan so charming, and the whole stay was a really interesting experience. Our room didn’t have a toilet, so going out to the hallway one was a bit of a hassle. There’s a kitchenette on each floor, too.

I’m here almost every weekend. Best onsen in Kagoshima.