Asahiya Ryokan

My father used this inn as a base for mountain climbing, and I stayed here on motorcycle tours when I was younger. Now my wife and I come three or four times a year to relax. I've known the place since I was young, and we're friendly with the proprietress, so I can unwind here without reservation. We enjoy everything, from the rooms and baths to the meals. I like trying all the baths, especially the cave bath. Its water has no smell, feels smooth, and has no unpleasant qualities. The inn is quiet at night, so we sleep well, and a morning soak is refreshing. My favorite combination is the waterfall bath, grilled trout, Bungo beef, and cold sake. The other dishes are good too. Breakfast includes dessert, and the salmon is seasoned just right. The miso soup is delicious as well. We have a friendly, fluffy Shiba Inu named Kiki. She's so cute to pet.

We slept soundly on the soft futons in our spacious room, and the homey, family-run atmosphere made the stay feel comfortable. The baths helped ease our travel fatigue. There's no sulfur smell to the water; it feels mild and slightly slippery on the skin. The rock bath is deep enough for adults to soak up to their shoulders. Dinner came with so many dishes: chawanmushi, grilled Bungo beef, yamame trout, horse sashimi, sashimi, steamed eel, and more. Everything was delicious, and everyone in the family was smiling. Breakfast had flaky salted salmon and tasty rice. Sujiyu Onsen costs less than major areas such as Kurokawa and Yufuin. The autumn leaves are beautiful in early to mid-November, and Kuju Plateau and Daikanbo are nearby. We'll stay again. Thank you!

The simple food and hot springs were soothing.

What I like about Sujiyu Onsen is how quiet and different it feels. You can hear the river while you bathe, then sit with a beer and look toward the mountain ridges. Inside the inn are two good-sized outdoor baths, two pleasant family baths, and a steam bath using the hot spring steam directly. The water comes straight from the source and overflows into the bath, and even the rocks feel hot. Down a steep slope there's also the waterfall bath, with four twin spouts on each side, eight in total. Sitting on a bench there in a yukata with a beer while day visitors hurry off in their cars feels pretty satisfying. If you want a hot spring town, Oita has major destinations such as B, Y, and K, and I'd recommend one of those. But for just enjoying hot springs, Sujiyu is among the best I've visited in Kyushu. It's a real, very hot spring. There's only one shop by the public bath, which also serves as a waterfall. I also like Atami and Ito, where groups get together to party, play golf and tire themselves out, then shop for dried fish by the station before heading home. This place is the opposite. You can spend the day hearing the river, deer, and nightingales instead of city music and noisy TV screens. If somewhere is better, let me know.