Ryokan Fukumotoya

The dinner exceeded my expectations and is well worth trying. The owner can’t speak English, so having an AI translation app ready for check-in would help. There are two private onsens. One is inside the main building and the other is by the ramp between the car park and the building. Pick up the key at reception first. The owner has hidden a heart-shaped stone in one of them, see if you can spot it. The public onsen is warm rather than hot, which makes it pleasant in summer. It’s shared by men and women; female guests are given a towel dress, while male guests bathe naked, which can feel embarrassing.

The owners were friendly and helpful, and the room was clean. This is a small, family-run, very traditional Japanese onsen hotel, set in a remote spot, so you’ll need a car to get there. Its quiet location also means you can enjoy privacy. Three onsens were open during our stay: a private indoor one in the main building, another private indoor bath outside it, and a public outdoor bath outside the building that’s sort of inside a cave. The food was extremely delicious, with huge portions. I’d recommend the hotel to everyone.

This was the wildest onsen hotel experience I’ve had in Japan. There are five onsens, and most are mixed, shared by men and women. Two are family baths that you can choose and lock from inside for private use. The other baths are mixed. One sits against the cliff wall, inside a half-covered cave around the pool. It feels quite public, and changing happens in an open area with only a door about a metre high to shield you.

We didn’t stay at the hotel, but the cave onsen was really unusual. A great little hidden spot.