Towada Hotel

With so little around Lake Towada, tourism here doesn’t feel very developed. Towada Hotel was like an oasis in the desert. I really enjoyed staying in this historic hotel, with its very old traditional architecture. The baths and dinner were good, the room was spacious, and I had a beautiful view of Lake Towada.

We stayed in the honten, the original wing, and it’s a lovely pre-war hotel built by miyadaiku, or shrine carpenters. It’s been updated while keeping original details in the honten and the preserved lobby. Emperor Showa visited, and there are some fun photos of him with the hotel and staff. The hotel feels quiet and tucked away in the woods above Lake Towada. We watched a full moon rise over the water just after sunset from our room, and although there were other guests, it never felt crowded. Service was warm and very professional without being stiff or overly deferential. The location is incredible for views and peace. Much of the hotel seems to have been updated in the bubble era. There was a post-modern fountain in the courtyard, not in use when we visited, and a comfortable lounge with a simple coffee bar from that same era. The shared bath, also from the bubble era, was well designed and maintained, with wonderful lake views. Dinner was a course meal, delicious and more accessible than we expected, prepared and served with real care. We came from Aomori via the Oirase Gorge route, which was a great surprise. In summer, take the east route if you can. The rapids run almost at street level beside the road, and we stopped to walk along the path in a few places. I could imagine staying here for a week just to relax and enjoy the space, with a nice balance of service, privacy, and amenities.

Even though the drive from Aomori Airport to this secluded resort is a long one, we’d gladly come back. The hospitality at such a grand hotel was a wonderful surprise, and the English-speaking staff were warm and friendly, making us feel at home. They prepared our vegetarian meal to Michelin-star standards.

We rented a car and were glad we did. The hotel is secluded but gives quick access to Oirase gorge, and Hirosaki is about a fun 1.5 hour drive away. The mountain setting is lovely. We visited in late April, when there was still snow on the ground, the weather was mild, and the boat wasn’t running yet. We stayed three nights in a traditional Japanese room overlooking the lake. The views were great, and the craftsmanship and architecture had an old-world feel with modern comforts. It had a toilet and full bath, plus a separate vanity room, which would be useful for a larger group. The staff took care of everything from arrival onward. When we came back from our afternoon outings, someone even ran out with umbrellas. There was always someone around who spoke at least a little English, and the others were patient and helpful too. The onsen and spa had granite indoor hot and cold baths, an outdoor hot pool, and a sauna. Hair dryers and the usual items, like brushes, toothbrushes, and razors, were provided. The meals were a highlight. Dinner began with a box of five or six appetizers, followed by another five or six courses and dessert. There was more food than at other kaiseki meals we’ve had in Japan, and the quality was just as good, if not better. The menu mixed classic and fusion dishes, so it should suit people who are less adventurous too. They asked about allergies, but we didn’t have any, so I can’t comment on special dietary needs. We paid for the food upgrade and felt it was worth it. Each meal included a different dish or protein themed around local ingredients. Breakfast offered Japanese or Western choices, plus self-serve juice and coffee. Both were solid and better than most ryokan breakfasts we’ve had. This was a three-night stay at a great hotel combining kaiseki-ryokan dining with the feel of a modern Japanese onsen hotel. We’d recommend it to anyone after a secluded mountain getaway with excellent dining, modern comforts, and a classic Japanese experience.