Koyasan Yochi-in

Yochi-in has a quiet, almost tucked-away feel, and could be easy to miss unless you're looking for it. It's a small temple that also serves pilgrims as a traditional shukubō. The buildings are modest but well kept, with wooden structures, gently curved tiled roofs, natural materials, restrained carving at the entrance gate, and some interesting decorative details. There's also a simple karesansui garden of raked gravel, moss islands, and upright stones. It isn't designed to impress at a glance. The arrangement feels deliberate and contemplative, and the moss softens the gravel's geometry, especially on damp or overcast days. This is the traditional Shingon style found around Kōyasan, quiet and unpretentious.

Even with the crowds of tourists on arrival taking some of the excitement away, spending a night in Koyasan was well worth it. The room, meals, cemetery visit, and morning ceremony all made the trip worthwhile, along with the nearby temples. The monks were attentive and very polite.

Sleeping in a monk’s temple and seeing some of daily life there made this one of the most memorable parts of our Japan trip. The stay felt impressive and unusual, though the surroundings made it a little awkward at times. The meals were the one part that didn't suit us: the food was the same kind monks eat during their practice, and I found it strange and not very enjoyable. We had a more European-style room, which was extremely comfortable and made the stay more pleasant.

Yochi-in gave us a uniquely profound part of our trip, both illuminating and relaxing. Many thanks to the staff and monks for their hospitality and insight.