Sumiya Ryokan Kyoto

What made Sumiya Ryokan unforgettable was the thoughtful service, care with every detail, and the range and quality of the meals. We stayed in a traditional Japanese room, though it felt more like an apartment with several rooms and a little courtyard garden. Such a wonderful stay.

The price is high, but if you can afford it, the experience is worth it. It feels like a hotel set inside someone's family home, with 10+ bedrooms. The map made it look like an ordinary block with nothing special around, but restaurants, shopping, and the subway are all a short walk away. The owner and staff were gracious and did everything they could to keep me comfortable. The place has been in her family for over 100 years. Meals came to my room, and both breakfast and dinner were excellent Japanese food. Western options were available too, though I wanted Japanese food while in Japan. I was traveling alone, and the owner joined me for about 30 minutes at my first dinner and an hour the next night. She wasn't imposing, and she wanted to practice English. We were both curious about each other's lives, so the conversations were a great chance to learn about Japanese culture. I brought in a larger bottle of good sake both nights, and we took turns pouring while talking about all sorts of things. I'm a Westerner and can feel a bit uncomfortable with this much service, but the owner and staff helped me feel at ease. They made Kyoto my favorite city in Japan. I'd stay again if I return, and look forward to more dinners and sake conversations. Also, try the Japanese bathtub: shower first, soak, then shower again. Japan doesn't have a water shortage. :)

I wish we'd had more time at Sumiya. We felt at home there, and the food and wine were incredible. The location in Kyoto is unbeatable, and the service went above and beyond. It was one of the best parts of our Japan honeymoon. The ryokan wasn't the most “luxurious” place we stayed, but it was easily the most enjoyable. It felt like I left a piece of my heart at Sumiya, and I hope to return soon. I've rarely felt so at home in a hotel, inn, or guesthouse.

We arrived to find the bathtub already filled with hot water. The service was excellent, and both the kaiseki dinner and breakfast were tasty and special. A lovely place to experience a traditional Japanese hotel.