Tsukihi House Kyoto

We loved unwinding in the private open-air soaking tub after a day of sightseeing. Tsuhiki House has a lovely garden setting, friendly service, fast WiFi, and cold air conditioning. JR trains and city buses are easy to reach. A nice way to treat yourself during a Kyoto stay.

We made a booking mistake and noticed it right away, months before our arrival in Kyoto. Still, the homeowner showed no understanding and charged us €300 in cancellation fees. It felt like the decision was purely about profit, with no consideration for our situation. It's a shame, and it reinforces the image of a country that feels overpriced and inflexible to travelers, where tourists are treated as if all they can do is pay.

The wooden house had a warm feel, and being in a detached building made it easy for our group of four to enjoy the two days and one night we spent here in January. I also liked the garden, which gave the place a Japanese feel, and the open-air bath was comfortable to soak in without getting overheated. But the drawbacks were hard to overlook, and I can't imagine staying here again. The room was cold and drafty. Even with the heating turned up to the maximum, it mostly made noise and didn't warm the room. Heating was only in the living room and bedroom, so I shivered while changing in the dressing room and cooled off quickly after the bath. The underfloor heating had uneven hot and cold patches, which made me uneasy. The bath plug was so stiff that I had to wrap its chain in a towel and pull with all my strength to free it. White, dandruff-like bits kept floating up no matter how many times I washed the bath, which was very unpleasant. The website said there was a kitchen, so I bought ingredients for a light meal. What was there was much smaller than I expected, with no stove or microwave. There was a sink and a counter with only a kettle, coffee grinder, dripper, and tea bags, so it didn't really feel like a kitchen. The grinder hadn't been cleaned, and had grounds and dust built up inside. Some doors were difficult to lock because they didn't fit properly, and rattled even in a slight breeze. Other doors were hard to open without handles, and the outlets were far away, which made me wonder about the design. The host who welcomed me at the start was dressed so casually, including her accessories and hairstyle, that I couldn't believe she worked at an inn.

Staying here felt a bit like living in the neighborhood. This traditional Kyoto machiya has been turned into a modern, stylish home by a professional architect, with a garden, an outdoor hot tub, and no TV. Bluetooth speakers, Arabica coffee, and Ippodo green tea made the days feel restful. The price is high, but you get a completely private stay. I was touched by the book of haiku left casually by the bed. A very moving machiya stay.