Furuki

There were lots of cats around, and I noticed a plaque inscribed with “Muryoju,” a Japanese proverb for the head priest of Nishi Honganji Temple. It’s an impressive old house, but it’s still old and hasn’t been renovated. There are no keys for the rooms. I stayed in February, and even with the kerosene fan heater, my room never got to 20°C. I slept in my down jacket, and by morning the temperature had dropped to around 10°C. The bedding is a futon and thick blanket, so if you feel the cold, bring warm pajamas. Think of it like staying in a log cabin. Check-in is by 5 PM. Knowing that, it’s a very nice inn. (^o^)

This is genuinely an old house, not a trendy modern one. You can hear conversations, snoring, and alarms from the next room, along with the sliding doors and footsteps in the hallway. The old fixtures make those sounds echo quite a bit. It might suit people taking pottery classes or staying as a group. Bring your own amenities, and be prepared to fill the bathtub yourself. I went to a nearby hot spring instead, and bought my meals at a supermarket.

You can use the kitchen without any trouble, and there are separate baths for men and women plus three toilets. Self-catering is the usual arrangement. Pottery classes are available too, and you can rent a kiln privately and watch professional potters at work. It’s a real old Japanese house, with rooms divided by sliding doors and shoji screens. The price is very reasonable, and there seem to be quite a few guests from overseas. You only need a futon set and sheets. Bring your own towels and toothbrush, and probably your own slippers, since the ones there are old.

The pottery was a lot of fun, and I came away with so many good memories. Three instructors taught us, and they all spoke Japanese really well and kept the atmosphere cheerful. The bearded man from Northern Ireland explained things carefully and added jokes along the way. The American staff member was polite and taught with a lovely smile, while the Belgian woman was cute, kind, and very polite. They were all so friendly and fun that I think beginners and children can enjoy the classes too. I spent four nights in the traditional Japanese house. It’s made with beautiful, big pieces of wood, and this kind of accommodation is rare around Tokyo. You can stay overnight, so it could be a good experience for solo travelers, couples, or families. There’s a kitchen if you want to cook, and I’d suggest bringing food if you’re arriving by train. Bedding and towels are provided, so there’s no need to bring anything special. A box of tissues might be useful, though. There is a hair dryer, but the airflow is so weak that letting your hair dry naturally might be quicker. In winter, I’d bring my own. If the weather is good, you can see stars, and there’s a cute, very friendly cat.