Yamanote Villa Hagakure

The in-room bath was kept at just the temperature I like, using Dogo Onsen water stored in a tank. I could take my first bath whenever I wanted, which suited me really well. I’d come back when I’m looking for a quiet break. The inn is a little away from the busy streets, and each room is in a detached building, so it felt private and peaceful. After check-in, a charming little cargo van took us to our villa. It was only a short ride, but a fun start to the stay. The Dogo Onsen Main Building is still within walking distance. The Ehime sea bream rice was delicious, and they made rice balls from what was left so we could have them in our room later. We also got a free ticket to the nearby Dogo Gyaman Glass Museum and enjoyed the glass art. The bird sculpture by the entrance was adorable, too.

Dinner and breakfast were served in private rooms at the nearby Hayama Saryo. I usually enjoy the bustle of a buffet as someone from Ehime, but it was nice to have a private room for a change. The seafood was delicious, and after the sea bream rice I was completely full. Breakfast had plenty of seafood as well. There are only seven buildings, so it feels private and easy to unwind. We came as a family after I finished work nearby. At reception they brought us mandarin orange juice. The citrus flavor was strong, as you’d expect in Ehime, and it tasted great. Our building had a cypress bath that apparently uses hot spring water. It was so cold that day we barely went outside, but the terrace was lovely. It had the kind of atmosphere that makes you want to sit back with a glass of spirits late at night.

The meals were a highlight across all four nights. Breakfast was Japanese-style, and dinner was a full course in a private room where we could even wear yukata. The many dishes, mostly made with fresh local ingredients, were carefully prepared and lovely to look at as well as eat. I worried we might tire of having both meals included, but every day felt different, like having a personal chef. Our cottage was quiet, a short walk from the bustle of Dogo Onsen, around 7-8 minutes from the center. The staff were kind, polite, and gave excellent service. The room was cleaned beautifully each day, with yukata and towels replaced and the bed made. For a four-night stay, though, drawers or baskets for our things would have been useful. Inside, there was a roomy living area with a sofa, two low beds and a TV, plus a small fridge with complimentary water, orange juice and beer. They also provided filter coffee, green tea, black tea and a kettle. The garden deck could be seen from the room and the spacious cypress bathroom, which used hot spring water. The toilet was separate. It was a lovely cottage, and I stayed because I wanted a place to relax. Check-in was at the front desk in the glass art museum. The hotel is a long way from home, but we’d like to return for the comfortable service and good food. I once had a favorite restaurant hotel that gradually lost its special feel as the service and food declined, perhaps due to cost-cutting. I hope this relatively new place keeps up its current standard. We’ll definitely visit again.

I was very happy with the meals and the private bath water, which felt thick and creamy. The Japanese-Western fusion dinner was served in a semi-private room, and both the quality and amount were just right. The seasoning wasn’t too strong, and even the desserts were unusual. At breakfast, the clay-pot rice was the dish I most wanted more of. The cottage sits among trees, with a high ceiling and a nicely planted garden where you can sit in a garden chair. It doesn’t have an open-air bath, but opening the big windows beside the cypress tub made it feel airy without exposing me to cold wind. The bath was large, though it seemed suited to one person, and I wish two could fit. The bed felt a little small and soft. The amenities were thoughtfully chosen and good quality, especially the lotion and toothbrush. The toothbrush left my teeth feeling silky. There’s no large public bath here, but the one at Yamanote Hotel is a relaxed three-minute walk away. At this price, I’m a little skeptical about the parking fee, as I am with most hotels in Dogo. I personally prefer a private open-air hot spring bath I can use anytime and meals in a private room, and I was very satisfied with those things.