Jigoku Onsen Seifuso

The detached Hanare room was the standout for us. It’s spacious and luxurious, like a relaxing cabin away from the city. The meals were among the best I’ve had in Japan, or anywhere. The Yamakudo dinner, especially the Aso aka ushi skewers, was phenomenal. I’ve never tasted beef that good. Breakfast was just as splendid and complete, and both meals felt like experiences in themselves. The owner chef and team were warm and welcoming, and did their best to talk with us despite our limited Japanese. We felt kindly treated throughout our stay at this wonderful rebuilt historic onsen. The bath is special too, with volcanic clay coming through the water, though there was much less of it when we visited than in some photos.

We tried the public onsen for day use, which is open until 5pm. You sit outside in the boiling volcanic water, with the ground shaking beneath you and fresh forest air all around, then cool off in a cold bath and do it again. There are two facilities: a shared one for men and women, where they lend you a swimming outfit for a small fee, and separate baths by gender. We unfortunately didn’t get to try the latter. On the way up the hill by car, we spotted wild deer. What a place!

Dinner was delicious. We had duck hotpot, and the rice, cooked over charcoal, was the best I’ve ever had, every grain of it. Breakfast was yummy too, especially the French toast with fermented Japanese butter that gave it a Gorgonzola-like taste. The ryokan is a lovely mix of old and new. It’s 200 years old, was destroyed 7 years ago, and has been rebuilt. The light wood is new, while the dark wood was salvaged from the earlier building. Both open-air onsens, one single-sex and one mixed, have hot water with a very good composition. The faint sulfur smell reminded me of boiled eggs, but wasn’t unpleasant. I absolutely loved staying here.

This place is so peaceful. I haven’t found anywhere calmer in Japan.