Ooedo Onsen Monogatari Minoh Kanko Hotel

I went there with friends two years ago, and it was a really nice place where the kids could have fun and play freely. I’m thinking of taking my family there now, but I was dismayed to learn it may have closed. Please tell me I’m wrong.

The main downside was the strict dining schedule: you have to arrive at the exact time and leave after 90 minutes. Maybe that’s needed to handle so many guests. It’s an old place, but it’s been renovated throughout. We loved the room, hot spring, food, and service. Since no two-bed rooms were available when we booked, only Japanese-style rooms, I was worried about sleeping on the floor because of a stress fracture in my left foot. We booked directly, and the staff upgraded us to a special room with separate living and sleeping areas, city views, and a jet bath overlooking the view. There are lots of events, including a folklore show, music, and jazz, so there’s plenty to enjoy indoors even if the weather’s bad. The staff were all very nice. You can also take a stroll from the hotel to a big waterfall. The round trip takes about two hours if you stop at the beautiful spots along the way.

After hiking to Minoh Falls, I went up the elevator to watch the sunset and stopped briefly to take pictures. I should’ve gone straight to the onsen instead, because the best sunset view is from there. The roof is a short flight of stairs up, and the view from there is jaw-dropping. One level has a small pool, chairs for cooling off, and two ceramic furos. Another flight up are three pools that step downward, with little loungers built into the bottom one. The view is unobstructed all the way to downtown Osaka’s glittering skyscrapers. Watching the sky change colors, stars and planets appear, and planes queue to land while soaking naked on top of a building was a transcendent experience. Japan really has the art of living down. The onsen is clean and well appointed. Before soaking, you wash at stations right in front of huge windows overlooking the town and all of Osaka. They had different soaps, shampoo, and conditioner. Inside, there’s a large pool, a smaller one, and a sauna with windows on two sides, so you can keep enjoying the view. Afterward, there’s plenty of room to dry your hair, with hair dryers, hair serums, moisturizers, and a filtered water dispenser.

Try the hike to Minoh falls, especially in fall foliage season. The falls themselves are alright, but the walk up is incredibly beautiful and peaceful, at least on a weekday. It’s an easy hike, mostly on flat road, with just one elevated stretch. No stairs if you stay on the main road. There are stalls, rest areas, and restrooms along the way. Weekdays are also a good time to visit the onsen, when there are fewer families and mostly older people. Don’t miss the top-floor baths. Men and women have separate areas that rotate at different times of day. One side, the one to the left of the entrance, is much more impressive, with incredible views from an infinity onsen pool and individual onsen buckets. Tattoos aren’t allowed unless you can cover them with the hotel-provided patches, which are probably small. You go into the onsen area completely naked. The buffet can feel chaotic, and you have an assigned time slot. The better times usually get booked earlier. They have lots of baby chairs and even baby food for ages 5-12 months. Ask a staff member to get some ready.