Amanohashidate Ryokan Maruyasu

World class.

Dinner was a real highlight. The sashimi, boiled fish, and salt-grilled fish were fresh and thoughtfully prepared, and each soup and steamed dish had its own broth flavor. Even the thin-tipped disposable chopsticks made it easier to eat the fish without leaving much behind, a nice little sign of the inn’s care. At breakfast they set us up in a different private room, so we could eat somewhere quiet and tidy. There were lots of good sides for the rice, and the miso soup was especially tasty. The staff were attentive and checked on our health, too. The building itself isn’t new, but the tatami in the hallways gave it a clean feel. Our room wasn’t large, though the pleasant tatami smell made it comfortable. This is a ryokan that focuses on its cuisine, and I was so happy with our time there. Next time I’d love to bring my fish-loving parents. Thank you! ♡

The waitresses were a lot of fun, and we had such lively conversations that they became a fond memory of the trip. The inn serves wild-caught winter yellowtail shabu-shabu, and apparently this is where the dish originated. It was so good that I’ll definitely come back. Even in mid-December, the yellowtail had just the right amount of fat. We swished it in kelp broth with grated daikon, which drew off the excess fat and brought out the broth’s umami. The slightly sweet house ponzu was exquisite. The rice porridge at the end was light but full of flavor. The sashimi, simmered dishes, and other cooked food were good too. I did leave some hot-pot vegetables, though. The house ponzu wasn’t to my taste with them, and the portion was large. Breakfast was tasty and simple, and better than I expected. The rooms and facilities are old and not especially comfortable, but they’re clean and well maintained. There are three baths, a men’s and women’s bath on the first floor and a semi-open-air private bath upstairs with no view. Only the second-floor bath is Amanohashidate Onsen, but generally all three can be booked for private use. We visited Amanohashidate the day before, then stopped at adjacent Chion-ji Temple the next morning before heading home. The parking is down the alley in front of the inn. Its entrance is at a sharp angle, so getting in from the west side is narrow and difficult. It’s a monthly lot, but the inn rents it, so you can park anywhere. They also serve lunch and dinner to non-overnight guests.

The food was served in our room, with more than we could finish, and the fish was fresh. The thick, meaty stewed flounder was delicious, as were the salt-crusted sea bream, shrimp, and turban shells. Both the ponzu and the salt tasted great. The inn is right by Amanohashidate, with Chion-in Temple next door. We had a family bath, and the semi-open-air bath on the second floor was very comfortable. I’d happily return.