Ryokan Kougakuro

The staff here were amazing, really friendly and accommodating. After we’d checked out, manager Mieko helped track down our snowboard bags, which had been sent from the accommodation, and got them delivered to us within an hour.

We stayed at the end of March, when things were quieter, and chose a Japanese-style room with a lovely mountain view. Kougakuru mixes Japanese and Western touches, with both types of dining hall. Breakfast is served in the Western dining hall, and the buffet combines Japanese and Western food, plus a cook-to-order egg and bacon station. There’s a cozy lounge with a fireplace and board games that reminded me of a university common room. The onsen is open almost around the clock, with indoor and outdoor areas. The water felt really good on the skin, and the temperature indoors was comfortable for a long soak, though the outdoor water ran colder. Murayama san, the proprietress, is fluent in English and is the star of the place. She has a fiercely protective, motherly warmth. Most of the staff are French or Vietnamese and can also converse in English. I hope to return soon.

Mieko made everything so easy for us. She arranged a shuttle to and from the train station, shared all the train information for getting to and from the airport before we’d even arrived, and recommended places to eat and things to do. When the local shuttle stopped at the end of the season, she organized one to a different ski mountain. She can do it all! We booked on a friend’s recommendation and were really lucky to find this place. Breakfast was fantastic, the staff were lovely and went out of their way to help, and the onsen was amazing. There’s a super comfortable bar area with games, plus discounts for ski mountains and other activities. There was nothing not to love. I hope we can come back someday!

The short walk to the bus or lift base was the only downside, but it also gives you an easy option to catch a bus to another resort if conditions don’t suit you, so that worked out well. The hotel was excellent, with great staff who were helpful with everything. Breakfast was straightforward and easy. Highly recommend.