Yamakikan

On our first day, the head chef became ill and couldn’t prepare dinner. The owner picked us up at the station, drove us to a local place to eat, then took us to a konbini for breakfast and snacks for the next day. We were grateful for his kindness and the English he spoke, which helped with our limited Japanese. He’s a very kind man and should be proud to be the 15th generation owner of this inn. Yamakikan became one of the highlights of our trip. It’s a charming, clean inn with generous, delicious breakfasts and dinners. We also loved the private onsen available to guests. If it’s free, you turn on the occupied light and lock the door, first come, first served. As Americans, we appreciated having our own shower, tub, and toilet while still enjoying the charm of a traditional Japanese inn. Thank you for having us. We hope to return someday. My wife and I stayed at Yamaki-kan, and it became one of the best memories of our trip. The private bath had the same first-come, first-served system: if no one was in it, we could switch on the “Occupied” lamp and lock the door. We loved having our own shower, bath, and toilet while enjoying the traditional atmosphere. The owner also drove us to a local restaurant when the chef fell ill, and to a convenience store for food for the next day. We’re thankful for his excellent English and warm welcome, and hope to visit again.

The meals were generous, with a notably strong, salty flavour that seemed to reflect local food traditions. If you like a solid taste that goes well with rice and alcohol, this could suit you, though it may not be for those who prefer sweeter food. You can really sense the local character in the cooking. Yamakikan has a long history in Kawarayu Onsen, Gunma Prefecture, going back to the Edo period. After relocating because of dam construction, it has become a family-run inn. On my two-night stay, I found it spacious, spotless, and peaceful. There are only a limited number of rooms, so you rarely run into other guests. It feels like a quiet adults’ hideaway, with a comfortable distance rather than excessive service. The hot spring water is diluted, but it still flows freely from the source. It feels remarkably gentle on the skin, with little irritation, and the warmth stays with you long after bathing. A memorable soak. It’s a warm, welcoming inn that I hope continues, and one I’d like to return to someday for a quiet hot spring stay.

The food was even more disappointing than what I’ve had at a guesthouse. There was so little of it that I wanted to ask if that was really everything. With barely anything to eat, I couldn’t enjoy the all-you-can-drink plan either. That doesn’t feel all-inclusive. Breakfast was worse, and I didn’t find it tasty. I couldn’t eat the pickles because they were so full of artificial colouring. They said the small number of dishes was to avoid waste, but some people won’t eat food that doesn’t look appetizing, and there simply weren’t enough dishes. I think they could improve this. The breakfast shown on Bananaman’s “Sekka Gourmet” must have been just for TV. I won’t be back.

The meals were a pleasure to look at as well as eat. The Japanese kaiseki dishes used seasonal ingredients, were carefully made, and tasted great. The staff were kind and attentive, which made the stay feel warm. Yamakikan has a quiet, historic feel, but it’s clean and well maintained, so I was very comfortable there. I especially enjoyed the hot spring. The water was gentle on my skin, and I could soak for a long time without feeling tired. It made for a relaxing, luxurious break from everyday life. I’d recommend it for unwinding or a special trip.