Hatsushiro Ryokan

That single duvet kept me incredibly warm. It felt like a gift, especially since the room stayed cold no matter how much I tried heating it. Still, the 24-hour onsen meant I could soak whenever I wanted. I went on arrival, before bed, and again after waking up, and it was well worth it. The Shima Onsen water is unusual, clear and sweet like natural water from the Southern Alps, yet it warms you up and makes you sweat, just right for a snowy place. I'd found the inn through a hot spring enthusiast's post on X (formerly Twitter), and checked in on a weekday after New Year's. I skipped dinner, but all the nearby shops were shut that night. I ended up buying beer at the vending machine in front of the liquor store. I'd had a big lunch so it was fine, but I learned to bring snacks even when I'm not going into the mountains. Breakfast's white rice was shiny and chewy, easily the best I've had in years. It was so good. The owner was very polite and kept apologizing for the cold, though I'd come specifically to enjoy Shima Onsen in Gunma at the height of winter. We had the best time.

I booked through a major domestic travel website for my first stay here. The inn has just five rooms and sits three buildings behind the Shima Onsen Association office. Drivers can use the shared parking lot out front or park along the river. My clean six-tatami room looked out over the Shima River and had a great view. Some rooms have toilets and others share them. The building shows its age, though it's well cared for. Meals were served in the room, with generous portions that were generally tasty. Dinner's river fish was a little rare for my taste, though it was grilled just right if you like it that way. I wish it had been cooked a bit more. They also offer canned beer and sparkling wine alongside large bottled beer. I'd pick the two-meal plan over room only. The bath is on the first basement level, down steep stairs. They're wide and have handrails, but I think you need to be able to walk independently to stay here. The men's bath is comfortable for about three people. It doesn't seem to be reservable as a private bath, so if two other guests are there, it may be better to come back later. They ask about your schedule when you arrive, but seem to follow a set routine. I got there around 5:30 PM and they assumed dinner would start at 6, so bath time felt rushed. Breakfast is usually at 8, though they seemed willing to adjust that for guests leaving early.

My room was spotless and had a washlet toilet, with a calming view of the river outside. I could check in at 2 PM, which was handy. The November holiday stay, including dinner and breakfast, was extremely reasonably priced. The hot spring seems to flow freely. It was a little hot, but adding water from the shower made it comfortable. The food was delicious, especially the glossy rice, and the landlady was very polite. The inn is close to the tourist association, and I used the public parking lot. I'd recommend staying here.

The bath is small, but on a weekday with only two other groups staying, I could relax without worrying about crossing paths with anyone. I chose the breakfast-only plan since dinner isn't included for solo travelers. Breakfast was filling and delicious, especially the rice. My hometown is proud of its rice, and this was excellent too. A place that serves rice this good is the best!❗️ I've stayed at Sekizenkan twice before, but it's quite expensive, so this time I came here alone. The bus stop is close, making it convenient without a car. The cheerful, lively proprietress welcomed me. Maybe because it was a weekday, I got a room with a toilet and refrigerator even as a solo guest. A fluffy futon was already laid out, so I could lie down and rest straight away. I stayed two nights and three days, and it was such a good inn that I'd like to return.