Magome Chaya

We stayed for two nights to walk the basic Nakasendo route from Magome to Tsumago. The old house is well preserved and right in the middle of Magomejuku. Jeng and Maria gave us superb service, and the food was authentic Japanese fare. You can take water or beer from the fridge and leave the money in a box, on the honor system. We went in August, and the room AC was a lifesaver. The shared toilet was the one part I struggled with. I’m uncomfortable doing number two in a public toilet, so early one morning I went to the public toilet at the tourism office to get some privacy. I’d suggest adding a couple of private toilets for guests who feel the same way. Also, it’s an uphill walk from the bus stop, so I’d recommend bringing small luggage. Apart from that, I’d recommend staying here.

We paid ¥11,000 for a 6 tatami room. It was clean, but dinner was priced at ¥36,000, which seemed ridiculous when the restaurant down the hill had the same kind of food for ¥1,800. There are a few other restaurants nearby with better dinner prices. When we arrived, nobody greeted us. A note by the bell said someone might come when you ring, or might not. The room itself was cramped, and the second floor seems packed with as many rooms as possible to maximize profit. The walls are literally paper or cardboard thin. We could hear the next room talking, doors slamming, and water running at the tap. We got unlucky with a group of 6-7 Malaysian aunties talking loudly across a few rooms. The noise started at sunrise, 6:20am, with what sounded like heavy footsteps. Checking out was pretty much DIY and self-service, like check-in. In the common bath the water pressure was very low, and none of the basin taps had hot water. The heated toilet seat was off, again to maximize profit. The building front and the room look Japanese, but after staying in similar places and many ryokan, I didn’t find much authenticity here. It felt like a low-budget backpacker dormitory charging a lot. Thank God it was only one night.

We were lucky to get a 6-tatami room for high season in October at fairly short notice. We booked online through their website in June. The room was cozy and comfortable, and with it already being October, we slept well without AC. The service was friendly and good, and they spoke English. They also accommodated my request for a vegetarian meal for one person. The meals were absolutely delicious.

The dormitory was quiet and well separated, and the beds were comfortable. From the welcome through checkout, everything about our overnight stay for two was perfect. It’s a beautiful house, the food was impressive and delicious, and the staff took wonderful care of us. Nothing was missing, and I have nothing negative to report. Thanks for looking after us so well. We’d happily come back anytime!