Shiobara Onsen Yunohanaso

The staff and food were excellent, and we had a wonderful visit. One of the best ryokans we’ve stayed at.

They won’t accept foreigners who can’t speak Japanese well. Racism!

I chose this place because I couldn’t get a reservation at my usual favorite lodging. The food, service and staff all felt top-notch, and the whole inn has a comfortable, unpretentious quality. The rooms and shared spaces, though, were well-appointed but didn’t feel especially special. Making them more sophisticated might change the clientele and atmosphere, but I thought the overall balance worked. The food was impeccably prepared, as you’d expect at a traditional Japanese inn. Each dish was thoughtful and luxurious without being showy, quietly reflecting Nasu’s nature and surroundings. It was presented beautifully and elegantly, on a level with a Japanese restaurant in Tokyo. The pacing made for a relaxed meal. The alcohol selection was decent, though I wished there were more choices to pair with the delicious food. They left sweets and pickles in the guest room, which was unexpected and memorable. Simple but delicious, they really showed the inn’s focus on local flavors. The room itself was modern Japanese and clean, but plain, and didn’t feel particularly uplifting. The Simmons bed was very comfortable, though, and I slept extremely well. The open-air bath in the room was practical, but its look wasn’t especially luxurious. The lobby lounge served free beer and other drinks in the evening. It was popular, and felt a bit cramped for the number of guests. The staff were friendly and welcoming, while keeping a comfortable distance and not hovering. They took a photo of me during the toast, which felt unusual and became a fond trip memory. At checkout, they gave me coffee to go, and the Tochigi koshihikari rice souvenir was delicious. A pleasant way to end the stay.

The attention to detail in the baths, meals and service made us feel safe and relaxed. Our room was clean and atmospheric, and my parents were so happy they said they wanted to stay forever. It had been a long time since I’d travelled with them, so I decided to treat us to a relaxing family break, even though the detached room ended up costing quite a bit more than planned. We’d first booked a room without an open-air bath, but a cancellation came up for the detached room “Musashi,” so we were able to switch at the last minute. I’m glad we chose this inn, and we definitely want to visit again! ✨♨️