Hotel Kinu

The outdoor bath was the best part for me. It can comfortably hold about four people, and on a night just above freezing the hot water felt perfect. After 9pm, groups can reserve the public baths by putting a chain across the door. I checked at nine and nobody had used them all evening, so we had the place to ourselves. There are two bath areas, each with an indoor and outdoor bath, and after nine the reservations aren't tied to gender. Later we had the unlimited free beer and light snacks in the lobby. We didn't see anyone else, though staff came to lock up at 11. Maybe we were supposed to know that; I'm not sure what would've happened if we'd still been out. We were three white guys, and on a weeknight we seemed to be the only non-Japanese guests. I felt a bit out of place, but never unwelcome. It's a very simple, no-frills stay. Apart from check-in and meals, we hardly interacted with the two older ladies on staff. Drinks and baths are self-serve. We had half board. Dinner was really good, especially the beef and its incredible sauce, along with tempura, sashimi, boiled vegetables and other sides. Breakfast was a different story. The dried or smoked fish was okay, but I don't enjoy picking through bones. I did like the partly cooked egg over rice, and the miso soup was fire. The sides weren't for me: one might have been grated daikon with prawn larvae, and it tasted like cold, mushy cauliflower. I gagged. I know that's a traditional Japanese breakfast, and it was what I wanted to try, but I wouldn't choose it again. Anyway, thanks for listening to my TED talk.