Ooedo Onsen Monogatari Hotel Kinugawa Gyoen

Breakfast and dinner were buffets with plenty of Asian and Western options. The indoor onsen seemed nicer to me than the smaller outdoor pool. The men's and women's indoor areas switch each day and evening, while the outdoor view from the men's side is better. Ask the front desk if you need extra towels. The hotel is about a 15-minute walk from the bus and train station, next to the bridge with a nice daytime view and the monster staircase mural. Our room was large, but the tatami mats were awkwardly placed right in front of the door. There was a water boiler for tea, but no complimentary bottled water. WiFi worked only in the lobby and dining room, not in the room.

The smoking room is right beside the lobby and shop, and smoke spreads through the whole lobby. The entrance and lobby smelled of smoke, and it gave my daughters headaches. WiFi is only available in that area, and we had to pass through it every time we went to the hot spring. I was surprised that these basic things hadn't been addressed by a large franchise like ' Oedo group'. Disappointing. Is accepting smoking just an old Japanese habit? There are many smoking rooms, and the smell was strong even out in the hallway. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone concerned about their health. Such a shame, since the hotel has been renovated well.

The buffet was extensive, served in a huge dining room, and the food was great. I slept well in a really good Japanese-style room with futons. It's a big, busy hotel in a good location. There's no bus service, but the station is close enough to walk from, or you can take a taxi. Well recommended.

It's 800 m from Tobu Nikko station. I'd take a backpack rather than a suitcase.