Katsurasou

This affordable ryokan is run by a really sweet family who do their best to explain everything. The lady at reception even goes back to cook for guests. The outdoor sulfur onsen is relaxing, with a lovely forest view.

We had a lovely nature walk from the inn around Lake Yunoko, Yutaki Falls, Senjogahara, and Ryuzu Falls. Buses run twice an hour, so it’s easy to get around if you get tired of walking. I’d love to visit again. The open-air bath was a relaxing place to soak for a long time, with forest-like scenery and mother and calf deer wandering back and forth. The milky-white Yumoto Onsen water comes straight from the source, and the baths are open 24 hours. In autumn, yellow ginkgo leaves shone through the big atrium windows, and the pointed-roof Western-style building looked lovely against the Oku-Nikko foliage, giving the place an auberge-like feel. The food was just as good, with local dishes like Nikko yuba, wild vegetables, and Tochigi wagyu beef sukiyaki. It was delicious, nutritious, and locally sourced, and there was a wide selection of alcoholic drinks. The staff were smiling, caring, and extremely polite. A wonderful inn.

The landlady and staff were so hospitable, and the inn was spotless throughout, with a calm, relaxing atmosphere. The food was all homemade, nothing pre-made, and the seasoning was delicate and delicious. There were even hamburgers for the kids. I eat quite a lot and still left full. The cloudy hot spring water smelled of sulfur, just like Manza. Truly the best inn.

There are only a few guest rooms, so I often had the hot spring to myself. It was amazing, and I went in six times. The outdoor bath is a beautiful milky emerald-white, though the indoor bath had a film on the water first thing in the morning. The rooms are new, and the heating runs quietly. Apparently the water comes only from this nearby inn, so it may be different in quality from the water around Onsen-ji Temple. The meals seemed aimed at older guests, and I think they could use a little more character.