Tsumugiya Ryokan

At night and during the day, the place was wrapped in quiet. I could hear the wind at the windows, and little else. I'd never experienced that kind of silence before, especially in the middle of a city. The house itself is beautiful, hard to believe it's in Okayama, and apparently it's been renovated into an inn. The care put into the interior matches the lovely old exterior. The bath was pure luxury: a magnificent Shigaraki-yaki tub in a bathroom that smelled pleasantly of cypress. The inn is well kept, and the owner and his landlady greeted us with lovely smiles. We had a really enjoyable stay, and I'd confidently recommend it to friends.

Once you're inside, it's hard to feel like going anywhere. The old building has a faint wood scent throughout, with music in the background, and it felt like the most comfortable place. Getting to spend time there and step away from home and housework during the pandemic was a real relief. This is a renovated 80-year-old traditional house. Born in 1974, I found lots of little things that brought back childhood memories, though nothing felt dated. It was sparkling clean, and the bright, comfortable toilets were modern Western-style. The first-floor living room has a veranda around it. Its old glass sliding doors rattled in the wind, but were polished spotless. The lovely proprietress greeted us at the entrance in a hakama with a gentle smile. There was sandalwood in the air and elegant background music. A striking full-moon-like piece near the entrance looked like art, or maybe a light. It was apparently custom-made by Japan's only karakami maker, a business dating back to the Edo period. I found a Facebook post about the thinking behind it. The rest of the interior was stylish too. I was most looking forward to the bath, with its cypress-paneled room and huge Shigaraki ware tub. The wood scent and plenty of hot water helped me relax completely. Somehow, I feel like Shigaraki ware tubs release something good for the body, lol. Usually, the inn hosts two groups, one on each floor. Because of COVID-19 and a desire to avoid crowds, on this day we could book the whole building for ourselves even though it was a day trip. We were told the second floor was open to us too. After enjoying the first floor, we went upstairs to a brighter, more open space: a veranda on the other side of a living room the size of two joined Japanese-style rooms. You could lie down on the tatami, sit at the table, or use your PC in a chair. A small bamboo (?) chair faced the window on the veranda. Outside was an ordinary town, with an old man out for a walk, but sitting there made the air feel completely different, lol. There were no meals included this time. I'd definitely like to stay again after the pandemic subsides and the inn returns to its usual setup.

Just sitting in the big comfortable chairs under the warm lights and taking in the room was soothing. The garden beyond the shoji screens was beautiful, and I had a very peaceful stay. The room's tatami and table brought the Meiji and Taisho eras to mind, and its Japanese-Western atmosphere helped me forget everyday life as soon as I walked in. The inn is also close to Okayama's tourist spots and downtown, so it's a handy base for sightseeing. I'd definitely stay again.

The sense of quiet is something the place creates, even in the middle of Okayama City. It's not complete silence: I could hear people nearby and voices in the distance, but all of it came together into a special calm. It felt refreshing. On a rainy day, the rain and wind would have their own sounds, and the greenery would be fuller. I'd like to come back with friends. The website photos show how lovely the place is, but being there revealed something I hadn't experienced from the pictures: the fragrances and the tranquility. A soft sandalwood scent greets you at the entrance. The bedroom upstairs has its own different smell, and the bath is scented with cypress. Surrounded by all of that, both body and mind can relax.