Ryokan Onuma

Takako-san in the dining room patiently walked us through the ingredients and how the kaiseki dishes were prepared, which helped since we don’t speak Japanese and didn’t know much about the meals. The staff also helped with our car and bags when we arrived, and were very welcoming. The facilities were clean and rustic, with plenty of Onsen baths, and the meals were scrumptious. I’d booked for 8 baths, but they gave me a discount at checkout because the outdoor garden bath was closed due to bears. That was unexpected and a nice surprise. We had a wonderful stay. I’d happily book this ryokan again if I return to Naruko Onsen.

There are eight natural hot spring baths here, drawing on two different spring qualities. You can choose from an open-air garden bath, a women-only bath, and an aromatic bath, among others. The inn is well known in Higashi Naruko Onsen for its modern approach to toji, or hot spring therapy. It also offers different stay plans, including the two-night, three-day toji plan "Asyl" and Fasting, with seasonal meals as you relax and recharge.

The baths were the highlight for me. There are 7, including one for women only, plus a mixed bath with dedicated time for women. All of them were amazing. My favorite may be the outer onsen, where they drive you to a secluded spot and give you 30 minutes to enjoy it. The mixed bath comes close, with a wonderful mural and an old bathhouse feel after its renovation. This was my first stay at a ryokan in the Hitou (hidden onsen) association. The staff didn’t really speak English, but we got by just fine with Google Translate and my broken Japanese.

The food and sake were great, and the hospitality was just as good. I also liked the hot floor room. There’s a large main bath with the same spring water as the private open-air bath, which is 100% natural hot spring water with no circulation. It’s slightly green and has a woody smell. Three more private bathrooms use brown-colored hot spring water. The baths were excellent.