Yamakyuso

When I felt unwell on my second day, the inn gave me a lot of support. They also had thoughtful extras I hadn’t found at other ski-area inns: a spare surge protector, extra clothes racks, free tea bags, chopsticks and cups, a mini fridge, and hot water available around the clock. The rooms and bathrooms were clean, the futon was warm and comfortable, and there were coupons for 10% off at a rental shop and grocery store. It’s close to the Kane-no-naru-oka (Bell-Ringing Hill) lifts, a handy ski-in/ski-out spot for beginners and families. A heater outside the bathroom would be nice, though.

The rice balls I ordered for the next morning were warm and delicious, which helped after I had to abandon my Mt. Hakuba climb because of the bad weather. I’d chosen the hotel for its location near the gondola station and reviews praising the food. The place was clean, the linens were fresh, and even as someone sensitive to smells I was comfortable there. Dinner was delicious too, and the alcohol was surprisingly reasonably priced.

The food was a real highlight, especially the white rice, and they made me onigiri for an early start the next morning. The facilities were spotless, and my Japanese-style room with six tatami mats looked newly renovated. The tatami was new and the bed comfortable, with fresh futon and sheets. It had air conditioning, six hangers, a TV and a safe. The gondola station and Tsugaike Kogen bus stop are both about three minutes away, and the Bell-Ringing Hill slope is right there. There’s a drink corner with coffee, black tea, green tea and roasted green tea, plus hot water all day. The fridge and freezer are shared and available to use. I’d heard there was a washing machine, but didn’t know about it at the time, so I should have asked. Bath towels can be rented, and there are hand towels in the room. A ski and clothing rental shop is nearby, and there are English signs around the building, which has many international guests. The route to JR Hakuba Oike Station is paved and downhill, so it sounds like an easy walk for hikers, perhaps about 40 minutes, though I didn’t try it. I stayed in July, on my way back from hiking in Hakuba, and didn’t need the air conditioning at night.

If you’re mainly here to ski Tsugaike, this small traditional inn is a good fit and reasonably priced. It’s family-run, a little old and not luxurious, but has the basics. There are shared facilities, though it wasn’t full while I was there, so it never felt crowded. The inn is close to the nearby lift station and not far from the gondola. There’s ski gear storage and a drying room, and you can get discounts on ski passes. Breakfast and dinner are inexpensive, with other food options within walking distance. It was clean and tidy, and there’s a bathroom. On the downside, the toilets and bathroom are shared, the mattresses are Japanese style, and the service wasn’t especially enthusiastic.