Sasai

Our tatami room was spacious, and the futon was the best we've slept on. This is the oldest onsen ryokan in Tokachigawa, with the original source of the moor onsen. Buffet dinner and breakfast were included. I was looking forward to the raclette cheese because we'd had it at another hotel a few years ago, but this was disappointing. The heat lamp was off, and the melted cheese had been scraped into a plastic box and kept in a warm stove. When guests ordered it, they scooped it onto the plate, where it hardened straight away and tasted completely wrong. It put me off my meal.

The place is showing its age, and one of the two onsens is out of service, so men and women have to use it on a split schedule. The indoor bath felt small. I liked the much smaller outdoor one more, though. I went at 0330 and had the tub to myself, with the temperature just right. We were assigned the second buffet sitting at 1915. The Western and Japanese choices were okay, though I may be biased since I'd just come from those infamous Taipei buffet scenes.

We got in very late and needed a taxi to Obihiro. The staff arranged one for us and even offered hot coffee. Everyone was really welcoming. It's also a very good spot for the winter lightshow Sairinka.

The place is a bit old, but it has pretty much what you need: large rooms, good food, and a great onsen. If you're after something extravagant, this probably isn't the onsen hotel for you.