Magoroku

For day-pass visitors, only the indoor onsen is available. It’s extremely small and feels full with just three people. Compared with the other six inns, I really wouldn’t recommend this one.

We hiked along the dirt road to Magoroku Onsen in late September 2023. The access road was closed to cars, and a sign said the onsen was temporarily closed. When we reached it, the buildings were in different stages of decay, with broken windows and other damage. It would take a major renovation to reopen the place.

The food and accommodation were great, but a two-day, one-night stay may not be enough if a snowstorm keeps you from soaking properly. We had a storm during our visit, so we couldn’t really enjoy the onsen. Be ready to walk the 800 meters from the bus stop. You have to arrange the shuttle by phone, and it won’t run in light snowstorms, even when the walk is still manageable.

Once you reach the baths, there’s a choice of three rotenburo, two Konyoku and one for women only, plus four indoor baths: one Konyoku, one for men, and two for women. They face the Sentatsugawa River, across from the main building. The spring water is known locally as “mountain medicine water” because of its many health benefits. I’d start with the indoor Konyoku, then head outside. The larger rotenburo nearest the indoor bath is warmer and shaded. The smaller Konyoku rotenburo, about 5 metres away, gets sun and has cooler water. Magoroku Onsen sits on the bank of the Sentatsugawa River, off the main road between Ogama Onsen to the right and Ganiba Onsen to the left. It’s a traditional ryokan, and its out-of-the-way location meant we could soak quietly with just my partner and nature around us. We drove over at about 10 am. The small parking area fits around four cars, though a shuttle bus is another option. From the car park we hiked about 1 km to the onsen, crossing a narrow bridge on the way to the main building. It might be a short walk for some, but in winter the icy road and wind chill made it tough. For a day visit, admission was ¥510 per adult. You can bring a drink or buy one at reception before heading to the baths, which helps you stay hydrated and spend longer soaking. We brought our own towels to dry off.