KITAKOBUSHI SHIRETOKO Hotel & Resort

The public onsen and sauna had one of the best views we've seen in Japan. Our renovated room also had a lovely outlook over the open sea and a modern feel. We skipped dinner at the hotel since it only offered a buffet and we'd already had plenty of those around Hokkaido. Dining options in this small town are limited, though, so it's best to plan ahead for where to eat in Shiretoko.

The spa service was poor and ineffective, and the technicians were unprofessional. The resort's high prices don't match the quality.

As a first-time foreign visitor to Hokkaido, I spent two nights at this resort in Utoro, Shiretoko. It lived up to its description as a hotel and resort, with plenty of nice shared facilities, a spacious room and generous extras. The Lounge offered complimentary food and drinks throughout the day, including draught beer from 1pm-10pm, and the in-house dessert shop gave guests one free ice cream scoop per night. I also enjoyed browsing and shopping in the gift shop and using the gym. My room was good apart from having no bedside table and rather poor lighting in some areas. I liked that it had a practical, space-saving shower cubicle instead of the standard bathtub found in Japanese hotels. In my mid-60s, I also appreciated not having to step up or down to get into the room's toilet.

The setting is wonderfully quiet, with the ocean right there and the national park close by for outings. In winter, the town is barely more than a few convenience stores and a visitor centre, but the hotel has plenty on site: a buffet restaurant, shop, onsen, gym and chocolate café. I loved how remote and relaxing it felt. The rooms are huge and comfortable, and the lobby feels luxurious. The lounge also puts out a generous amount of free drinks. At dinner and breakfast, most dishes are cooked to order in front of you and presented beautifully, with friendly, efficient service. I really enjoyed staying here. It’s my favourite hotel in all of Hokkaido, and I’d happily come back.