Oyado Maruya

That grilled carp at breakfast really was as good as the saying in Shotaro Ikenami's "Onihei Hankacho," where Heizo Hasegawa says carp is best with salt. It had no fishy taste at all. This long-established inn is very close to Akimiya shrine of Suwa Grand Shrine. Autumn is a good time to visit for the mushroom dishes, especially the rice cooked with fragrant mushrooms. It was exquisite.

The rooms are spacious, and between the baths and hot springs it was easy to settle in and relax, almost like being at my grandparents' home. I really recommend taking your time in the room. Maruya only takes three groups a day, which makes it a special place to stay. The building was restored in 1993 as a former secondary inn, using old records and drawings to bring back the style of inns from earlier times. It has a long history in Shimosuwa-juku. Maruya is said to have begun around 1689 (Genroku 2), then served as a regular secondary inn from 1804 (Bunka 10) until the post station system ended in 1872 (Meiji 5).

The hot spring water runs a little hot, but I was fine with that. The food was the real highlight, with local seasonal ingredients thoughtfully prepared and genuinely delicious. It's a quiet, unshowy place for anyone wanting to slow down. The atmosphere is soothing, and both the rooms and bathrooms were clean and well maintained. No musty smell anywhere.

The baths were nearly private, and although there isn't an outdoor bath, I really liked the spring water. I came away very satisfied. There's nothing extra or showy here, which made it easier to switch off and do nothing for a while. The food is simple, well seasoned, and rooted in local ingredients. Some things on the menu are rare, but they don't make a big sales pitch out of them. It may sound like I'm bragging, but I think people who've stayed in a lot of inns will appreciate this place.