Yudani Onsen Ryoso Mitsui

The newer room is definitely the better choice for an overnight stay, even though it's the same price. I chose the older room because I have a child who can't yet sleep in a bed. I'd stayed in the newer room before my child was born. That older room was surprisingly dated, but everything visible was spotless. The cleaning was amazing. Even places you can see are often dirty elsewhere, but someone here clearly loves cleaning and has made everything look beautiful. The hot spring is narrow and reached by steep stairs, so I wouldn't recommend it to older people. You can tell how crowded it is from the slippers, and guests need to cooperate with one another. The inn does everything it can, and I really appreciate the thoughtfulness throughout. The family bath feels like a wooden tub has been put in an old tiled room once used by staff and guests. It reminded me of a certain Ghibli anime, and felt very old-fashioned and nice. I've stayed twice. The hospitality, including the food, was almost impeccable.

My river-view room was ideal for relaxing, with a clear stream running just below the window. In the evening, I came back to lay out my futon and found a kettle of cold water in the room, which was very useful. The building is old, but the staff have put thought into the food, baths, and other details. The meal made generous use of local vegetables and was so tasty it felt like it would make you healthy. The bath wasn't large, but the slipper rack made it easy to see how crowded it was. The open-air bath had a lovely sense of openness.

The three bathrooms include a family bath that's only big enough for a parent and child. The other baths face the babbling river, making a morning soak really relaxing. One possible improvement, though it may be difficult, would be the small open-air bath. It could be hard for women to use, and ideally it would have a lock and perhaps a time reservation system. This peaceful inn sits in a small hot spring town in Okumikawa, close to the Shin-Tomei Expressway interchange and convenient for sightseeing around Horai. The traditional Japanese food is excellent. It's a perfect location for the coming autumn foliage season. They've apparently won many Rakuten Travel awards, and I can see why. I'd like to return after some time has passed. A very personal postscript: at dinner we were served by a woman whose cool, clear eyes reminded me of Kou Shibasaki. My wife and I both noticed she was wearing a mask, and we got all excited about it after we got home. What the heck?!

I decided on a solo trip at the last minute, and it's only an hour from my home. The inn is small and not especially luxurious, but the tasty food and rich, flowing hot spring water soothed me. I'd recommend it for a quiet getaway, alone or with someone.