Pension Onigahama

I stayed last November, in November 2022, and am late getting around to writing this. The city boat to the island cost 520 yen one way. It serves as public transport for the people living on the islands of Matsushima, one of Japan's Three Views, with the city responsible for safety, unlike the privately run Shiretoko sightseeing boat I still remember. For visitors, it also makes a sea tour of Matsushima possible, and the return fare is only a little over 1,000 yen, which feels incredibly reasonable. When I got off at the port and started walking to the inn, the owner called out and offered me a ride, though I hadn't asked for a pickup. Looking at the map, I hadn't realized there would be so many uphill stretches. I would have arrived worn out without the lift. I'd read some pretty harsh reviews on Google and Jalan, and the owner's replies had left me thinking she might be a bit eccentric. I saw that as part of the travel experience, though, and was actually looking forward to meeting her. When mama-san came out to greet me, I immediately sensed something noble about her. Her clothes and presence gave an impression of dignity, almost like someone with exceptional upbringing. I even wondered if her ancestors might have been nobility. Photography is my hobby. I meant to say something, but perhaps mama-san was irritated by me taking pictures around the property. After that she seemed to keep her distance, and I never saw her in person again. If you want to connect with her and have a good interaction, I think it may help to approach it as being invited to your boss's villa and treated to a home-cooked meal. Probably. What does it mean to be a guest? There's a saying attributed to Date Masamune, who ruled Matsushima, where the pension is: "If you are patient and calm and think of your arrival as a guest, you will have no troubles." That rings true to me. Guests also have a responsibility to follow the manners, morals, and rules expected of someone who's been invited. They take only two groups a day, and depending on how many people stay, the labor involved may mean they're operating at a loss. It's a place to appreciate, run by a married couple who accept even solo travelers. It's good to make the most of life. We had beautiful sunny weather again, and managed to take some photos we're proud of. I'll upload them, so have a look. I hope Pension Onigahama keeps being a happy place.

The white detached house on Katsurashima Island has four guest rooms, each with a separate living room and bedroom, about 12 tatami mats each. They felt spacious and relaxing, with sunny windows looking out over the ocean and tasteful decor that made me feel as if I were inside a painting. An older couple welcomed us. Meals were served downstairs in a hall with elegant furnishings and soft background music. The refined wife hosted the course dinner, while the husband was friendly. It's about a 20-minute trip on the municipal steamship from Shiogama Marine Gate. If you tell them when you'll arrive, the owner can pick you up. The walk is around 10 minutes, and strolling across the island is pleasant too. There's a swimming beach nearby, with lots of seashells that make a beach walk enjoyable. On a warm day, sitting on a garden bench and taking in the view is a lovely way to forget the city bustle. People have different sensibilities, backgrounds, ways of thinking, tastes, and hobbies. I hope others will see the place for themselves and make up their own minds, instead of deciding whether it's good or bad based only on reviews.

We spent three days and two nights there, and they picked us up from the boat on the first day and drove us to the inn. It had a lovely atmosphere, with paintings the hosts had made themselves. Dinner was a full course, and they were very accommodating about our not eating meat. The husband and wife both made us feel at home. Definitely worth going at least once!

They kindly picked us up at the pier, which I appreciated since this was my first stay at a guesthouse. The food was a little unusual, more like fusion cooking, and it wasn't really to our taste because we're not used to that style. As other people have said, the landlady could be rather sharp at times. I've worked in customer service, so I don't think customers are always right, but there were moments when I felt she didn't have to talk to us that way. Maybe that's just how guesthouses are?