Shiroyamakan

The meals were a real highlight, especially the balance between the delicate starters and richer dishes like the hot pot. Everything felt seasonal and local, cooked with restraint so the ingredients could speak for themselves. Shiroyamakan has a calm, almost meditative feel, with big windows looking out onto greenery, and it naturally made me slow down. The hospitality was warm and attentive without ever getting in the way. It feels grounded in the region rather than focused on conventional luxury. If you want something loud or indulgent, this probably isn't for you. For quiet surroundings, thoughtful food, and a strong sense of place, it's a stay worth making.

We were amazed by the dinner, from bear, which neither of us had tried before, to wasps, sashimi, and tempura. The drinks were excellent too. I especially liked the sunshine Japanese whiskey, and my wife enjoyed a gin based highball; we also had some wonderful warm sake. The owners of this 140-year old ryokan took us and the other guests on a van tour of Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with beautiful traditional Gassho thatched roof houses. This 4th generation family runs the place with so much kindness, care, and respect. The building is old but very well kept. There are two saunas, along with breakfast and dinner. It cost a bit more than most places we stayed on the trip, but was worth every penny.

The private onsen was a favorite: we soaked in the hot water and looked out at the river through a big window. The family has run this historic 140 years old ryokan for four generations, and you can feel the care they put into it. Inside, some rooms have been recently renovated while others keep a traditional japanese style. The whole place felt peaceful from the moment we arrived. Thanks for welcoming us into your home and giving us such a unique stay. If you're spending a night in Shirakawa, you absolutely must stay here. The bus stop is right across from the property, too.

We didn't get to see Sakura or snow, but the autumn leaves were lovely. Shiroyamakan is simple and enjoyable, and with only 4 groups staying each day, it's often fully booked. If the dates fit your plans, grab a room. We stayed in one of the 2 newly renovated rooms, which was spotless and comfortable. There was no bath in the room, but the 2 fully equipped private onsen baths, shared between 4 groups, were more than enough, and we could use them whenever we liked. The food follows a farm and forest to table idea, with sustainably foraged ingredients and nearly everything homemade. The dishes tasted good, including grilled Hoba miso, which I liked better than versions at some luxurious onsen hotels in the Hida region. The meals reminded us of our stay at the Tree hotel in Sweden, which was equally impressive. We don't drink, but their unusual mocktails were really nice, so give them a try if you're a teetotaler. The host family are friendly and hospitable, though they speak little English. The father, a 4th generation resident of shiragawago, offers guests a free tour to the observatory deck. Don't miss it. He shared lots of valuable information and clearly loves and takes pride in his homeland. The decor had a tasteful Japanese aesthetic, and the location is excellent, just a stone's throw from the bus terminus. No wonder it gets a score of 4.9.