Honno Ryokan

That big cypress bath was a highlight. It's shared, but you can lock the door and have it to yourself, which made it easy to relax. Dinner was delicious, with so many side dishes I wanted another helping. The kind mother who welcomed us gave the place a cozy, home-like feel.

The cypress bath was the biggest surprise, and it felt relatively new. It can mean waiting when things get busy, but guests seem very happy with it. The landlady was friendly too. The inn itself has an old Showa-era interior, and it's a bit of a walk from the station, though the price is reasonable.

I came for one night in early August, during a week-long trip around northern Tohoku that included Jomon sites, local hot springs, and the Tachineputa festival. Since I arrived late and planned to leave early, the reasonable room-only rate worked well for me. Getting there on foot from Shiwa-Chuo Station took about 20 minutes in heavy rain. The station exit is on the opposite side from the inn, and flooded roads and dead ends made it hard to find. The building is old and the stairs creak, but the amenities were provided and the other guests were quiet, so I slept without being disturbed. I was on the second floor, though the only toilet is downstairs. There’s an instant coffee maker just inside the entrance, plus a shared refrigerator in the entrance hall.

The rain made the old-fashioned inn feel even more atmospheric. I came expecting the charm I’d seen in the website photos, but the place was even nicer than I’d pictured. The cypress bath smelled lovely, and I got to soak in it alone. Meals came in very generous portions, and I was really satisfied. A peaceful stay that let me unwind.