Shirafuji

Staying in this historic house was perfect.

The property sits at the northwest corner of the main gate of the Saka domain. The Urano family, who held important posts in the domain, built it in the early Meiji period. A muddy wall surrounds the grounds, with a storehouse in the northwest corner set against a botamochi stone wall. An elegant gate opens onto the garden, and the main house has the feel of a samurai residence from the domain era. In 1910, Dr. Maruta from Shimohachicho acquired the property, added a stately Western-style examination wing and a two-story hospital wing, and kept the practice running until the end of the Showa period. The facility opened in 2002 and became a registered national tangible cultural property in 2003. It now serves community development activities and local gatherings. Its name comes from the garden’s white wisteria, which is over 100 years old.

We came with a friend and his wife, plus two other families, and I loved being able to slow down and wander around Suzaka. This was my favorite place I’ve ever stayed. The owner’s care showed from the conversations before arrival through our departure. It felt warm in a way a large luxury hotel doesn’t, and I’d recommend it if your budget allows. I love hot springs, so I was sorry there wasn’t one in the room, but the sake lees bath was a nice touch and several hot springs nearby let us enjoy a soak. The bathtub in the main room was also the most comfortable I’ve ever used, with a beautifully shaped design. The ethical, organic amenities were stylish and comfortable to use, which I appreciated. The old house is quaint from outside, but inside it wraps around a courtyard, so you can’t see out and it feels like stepping back in time. The Japanese-style main house, veranda, and Western-style building looked just like the photos, and every angle was picturesque. Because the buildings are separate, two families could relax comfortably. The renovated bathroom was stylish and easy to use, giving the place a Japandi feel. Most of the lighting was indirect, which reminded me of Europe and made me wonder if Japan might have been like that in the past. We visited in winter, but the many stoves, air conditioners, hot-water panel heaters, carpeting, and other thoughtful touches kept us cozy in a house that otherwise would have been cold. That stood out to me because my grandparents’ old house was extremely cold. It’s a luxurious mix of the best of old and new, and a relaxing place I hope will keep going for a long time. I’d encourage people to give it a try.

We’re a family of three with an 8-month-old, and having a one-group-only inn meant our child could run around freely. The proprietress looked after us from check-in through meals and even transportation, and she was incredibly kind and accommodating. Sunlight through the garden wisteria was lovely, and we relaxed as the evening gradually came on. We arrived around lunchtime and stayed until noon the next day. Coffee on the garden veranda in the morning was delicious. They also seem to offer late checkout until 5 PM, which could be useful when planning a trip. I’d recommend it for a long, relaxing stay.