Ryokufuen Kiyoharu

English works fine here, though knowing a little Japanese makes things easier. I stayed two nights after my first three nights in Tokyo and tried both dinner and breakfast. They’re traditional Japanese meals with lots of small dishes. Even if you don’t enjoy every item, it’s worth trying the experience.

The rooms are generous in size and can get warm enough in winter, but they’re very dated. Mine even had a VHS player. The towels looked as old as the hotel and long overdue for replacement. The toilet is cramped, with my right leg hitting the sink piping, and there are no towels by the sink for drying your hands. If you get an unlucky room, you’ll hear chatter from the onsen below, which stays open until 11 pm. The train tracks are very close by too. There isn’t much around, so I’d only stay here if travelling by car. The nearest supermarket or Konbini is an 8-10 minute walk away. I wouldn’t stay here again.

We felt genuinely welcome throughout our two-night stay. The staff were consistently warm and kind, and although we don’t speak much Japanese, they tried hard to communicate in English. Many could manage simple English, so it felt very foreigner-friendly. They even offered station pick-up and drop-off, driving us personally each time. That thoughtful care made us want to return. The rooms have an older, retro feel, but everything was clean and well looked after. Cold water bottles and hot kettles were already prepared, and there was fabric freshener spray in the closet. The bedding was soft and comfortable, and the room was spotless. We booked dinner and breakfast on the first night. Both were full of traditional Japanese flavors, with delicious Hida beef at dinner and hoba miso pork at breakfast the next morning. The sake and beer were smooth and easy to drink too. In a time when big chain hotels are everywhere, this small, cozy place felt special. Our two nights here were amazing, and it was one of my warmest, most thoughtful stays in Japan. Highly recommend!

If light bothers you while sleeping, bring an eye mask, since sunrise light comes straight into the room. The place is a little far from the city centre, but the rooms are comfortable. There’s an indoor onsen and another outside, plus a sauna. I enjoyed the delicious and interesting kaiseki breakfast, and the service was excellent, as everywhere in Japan.