Midagahara Hotel

The hotel feels a bit old-fashioned, though it sits among lovely alpine ski runs. Its location is fine if you use the Alpine buses.

The restaurant was a real highlight, with Japanese food that was top-notch. Be sure to reserve dinner when you book your room. This is one of only two hotels in the area, and reservations are hard to get, so book as soon as they open. The building is old but very well cared for. There are lots of sofas in the lobby facing a large window with a mountain view. They offer walks around the hotel at 3:30 and 5:00 PM to introduce the area, but the tours are only in Japanese. I really wish they offered English or other languages too. We still had a great stay.

We were lucky to see the mountains in all sorts of conditions during our three nights here: fog, Unkai, a clear view of the city, and rain. Midagahara Hotel sits with the mountain range to one side and open plains in front, and the bus stop is about a minute away on foot, making it easy to get to other attractions. The building has history, but it’s very well maintained. The staff were especially friendly and helpful. I was wearing the only yukata available in my room, which was much too large, and a staff member noticed and brought me a better-fitting medium one without me having to ask. Breakfast and dinner were both highlights. The buffet breakfast was the same all three days, but everything was tasty and I found a few favourites. Each of our kaiseki dinners was different. The fresh ingredients may have been similar, but the chef prepared them in different ways: sukiyaki, shabu shabu, and grilled dishes. Everything was delicious. It was our first stay in the Tateyama, and Midagahara Hotel set a high bar for what you can get up in the mountains.

The public bath has a great view of the snowy mountains, and the hotel itself is clean and well maintained, even if it isn’t new. I thought the peak-season price was incredibly high, but still worth it. I stayed in mid-Apr 2025, a few days after the Kurobe Alpine Route opened. Getting here was almost as challenging as travelling the route, though the hotel is only a short walk from the Midagahara bus stop. The scenery nearby is excellent, especially the sunset when clouds are around. It was mind-blowingly spectacular. I had the upgraded meal plan, which included free-flow alcohol of my choice, and had no complaints about the food. The kaiseki dinner featured regional specialties such as firefly squid and konbu-cured sashimi. Everything tasted very fresh despite the altitude, probably because the hotel is close to the sea near Toyama city. Breakfast was buffet style, with Japanese and Western options. There were also free activities. The evening slideshow covered the Alpine Route’s history, local wildlife through the seasons, and how the hotel operated before the route opened. It was interesting, but it was in Japanese, even though posters said English subtitles would be available. If you don’t understand Japanese, it’s probably not worth going. Stargazing followed the slideshow and was also in Japanese. Luckily, it takes place right outside the entrance, where you can get a pretty good look at the stars on your own. I’d consider coming back for the autumn views.