Todaya

The hotel could use some redecoration in places, and with a layout this large and maze-like, more signs in languages besides Japanese would help. Still, we had a lovely room looking out over the harbour and the sea. Every staff member we spoke with was friendly and helpful, even though we don't speak Japanese. The location is handy, just a four-minute walk from Toba station. That's why I gave it four stars.

We had a lovely time here with our family, and the kids were especially into the doctor fish pool. Service was outstanding. The inn is clearly old, but it felt clean and tidy. I chose it partly because it's close to the train station and shopping arcade. Breakfast and dinner were included in the room price, and both were fresh and delicious. The hot spa was on the small side, and there wasn't a milk machine.

The onsens were nice, and the ryokan was listed in the 2019 Michelin guide. We stayed two nights, which meant we got a complimentary dinner gift of lobster and abalone sashimi. Our 12-tatami room was spacious, and both buffet meals were excellent. Dinner included wagyu beef, fried oysters, tempura, plus the usual sushi and sashimi. There are also rooms with in-room kaiseki, but I couldn't find that option on most sites such as Expedia and its affiliates. It's a bit more expensive, but I would have paid the difference. Booking through a US website left me unsure whether we'd get the buffet or kaiseki, which is the usual problem with those sites. For kaiseki, you'll need to check Japan-focused websites. The train station is a five-minute walk away, and there's a shuttle back to the station.

The onsen were a highlight, and there are five small private baths available on a first-come basis. I stayed one night and really enjoyed it. The building is dated, but it's in good shape, and the room had useful amenities. It was spacious and relaxing, with a great harbour view. The food was okay for the price. Breakfast came with a nice sunrise view.