kamosu mori

I've stayed at "Kamosu Mori" alone, and it remains one of my favorite places. Matsunoyama in Tokamachi, Niigata is remote and gets heavy snow, so you'll need a car, though cycling could be fun if you're up for an adventure. The scenery is open, with rice paddies and mountains that capture the satoyama landscape, rather than dense forest like in places such as Nagano. On my recent two-night visit, I had a full-course dinner the first evening, with wine and sake, then breakfast just before checkout. It was the new rice season, and the rice was so good, a real showcase for Niigata produce. Traveling and dining alone felt completely fine to me. Japan is safe, and solo dining, or "ohitori-sama," is part of the culture. The couple culture in Western countries can make solo travelers like me feel more awkward. The wooden building carries sound easily, so guests are asked to walk quietly and be considerate. It may not suit people who want to party or tend to be noisy. For family time, the newly built Villa might work well. The hot spring is clear and odorless, and comfortable for me; there's also a shower booth for anyone who doesn't enjoy baths. Everything I saw was immaculate and well maintained, and you can tell the staff take care with their work. The bath products have natural herbal scents, and they provide cosmetics including cleanser, toner, and lotion. It's rare to find a decent Western-style place with an Onsen that welcomes solo guests. I hope to keep coming back.

We booked at the last minute with friends, and this was the only place left. We got very lucky. The staff were wonderful and helpful, and the dorm beds were the most comfortable I've had, much nicer than a typical hostel. Dinner was fantastic: several courses, duck and pork, and tasty sides. We shared some lovely bottles of wine and had a great time. Best of all was the onsen, with its gorgeous view. I'd highly recommend staying here.

We didn't stay overnight, so I can't say what the hostel is like. We came for dinner at this place, which calls itself a “restaurant and hostel,” in the countryside miles from the nearest town. The French food was good quality, and the tables look out over hills and forest. For two people, with one drink each, dinner cost Yen 10,000, a mid-range price. The frustrating part was the lack of a reasonably priced house wine, so we ended up with OK cocktails instead.

The setting was beautiful, and waking up to forest and mountain views felt special. We found the lodge very comfortable, the onsen luxurious, and the food delicious. The wine and sake list was interesting and inventive, and the friendly staff made us feel welcome. I forgot to mention someone in our group had a mushroom allergy, but they kindly changed dishes for both dinner and breakfast. We'll definitely be back.