Unkai

The food was good and the onsen was gorgeous. They also offer a private car tour with a local guide for a reasonable price, which saves time getting around. Thanks to Ms. Hisako Saito and the other staff for their hospitality, and for replying so promptly to our emails before we arrived. There’s free transport from the station too. Highly recommend.

We caught sight of Unkai during our stay, and the onsen view was spectacular. For three people, 45,000 yen including two meals felt worth it. There’s also a staff member who speaks fluent English, so anyone who doesn’t speak Japanese should feel very welcome. I’d highly recommend this place.

Saito San was so polite and helpful at check-in, and patiently answered all my questions. Thank you! The room had an en suite toilet but no bath. We spent a relaxing night, with a lovely onsen view of the mountains and a wonderful set meal for both dinner and breakfast. The sunset from the hotel was beautiful.

The outdoor bath was a highlight, with a lovely view across the valley. It was snowing heavily during our visit, so we didn’t get a clear sunset or sunrise, but the scenery was still great. There’s also an indoor bathing area with washing stations and a hot bath, plus a separate room with a cold bath and doors to the sauna and outdoor area. One door leads straight outside from the bath. The onsen is open to day visitors too, so check the hours if you want a quieter soak. I think winter day visits end at 8 pm. We stayed one night during a winter trip through Nagano and Niigata. Matsudai Station is easy enough to reach by public transport, but the inn is up the hill and not nearby, so tell them your arrival time in advance to arrange pickup. They provided a complimentary shuttle back to the station as well. Our check-in went smoothly. The room was clean, warm, and had most of what I’d expect from a ryokan, including a basin and toilet. We were on L3, near the stairs and lift, in what I think was room 306. It was set back into the building, so the view was mostly of the L2 roof. We really enjoyed the mini kaiseki dinner, with Niigata beef and plenty of delicious dishes. Breakfast was just as good. I’d definitely come back.